No I'm not cursing, just looking for tips on bleeeding servo-assisted ABS brakes as fitted to a Citroen Synergie. It is due a fluid change and I relish doing the work myself, partly thanks to interest generated by this site. Can anyone recommend one-man brake bleeding kits? Despite having a selection of children of various ages. not one shows any interest in the workings of cars:-( so I'll have to do it myself. I have been spoiled by owning green-fluid Citroens where the system pressurises itself if the engine is running and the brake pedal propped "open". Fluid changes and brake bleeding were a simple one-man operation:-)
Any comments much appreciated.
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I got the standard kit that is pressurised by the spare tyre up to 20PSI. It has a bottle of fluid that is forced in as the old brake fluid comes out.
However it may not work with dual circuit brakes as in modern cars! I think I got it years ago at Halfords.
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Darcy,
I would also strongly reccomend the Gunsons device. It is so simple but it works perfectly. Mine has changed the fluid on various cars over 10yrs + to notch up well over 100 uses. The kit is supplied with fittings for most current brake fluid caps and the older small metal cans, including that really small one found on early british clutch master cylinders.
Some more unusual caps are available as extras from Gunsons, for example that large diameter type on many Japanese cars.
It is completely compatible with modern brake systems including ABS. As Andrew H says buy for about £15 from Halfords etc.
Andrew M is right that it is better to keep the pressure nearer 15psi than 20psi to avoid leaks or even the cap blowing off. I keep a spare tyre from a scrapped car which I use for providing the pressure source, this avoids messing about with one of the car's tyre pressures. And also the shock if you forget to lower the pressure first and connect it to a tyre at 30psi!
One last tip. Before connecting the Eezibleed to the system draw off nearly all the old fluid from the resovoir (I use a "horse-vet" sized syringe) and top up with clean fluid so that you obtain new fluid as soon as possible at the bleed nipples.
Interestingly the next step up from this is the real trade type of kit working from an air line or internal motor....and they cost up to £250 for exactly the same end result. Oh yes....I personally would avoid the vacuum types that pull the fluid from the bleed nipple. Leaks around the part-open nipple can make it hard to see when the fluid is truly free of air bubbles.
David
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I have used the same piece of kit as described by Andrew Hamilton. Gunsons Easibleed. The only bit of advice is dont have the tyre that you are using to pressurise the system higher than about 15psi. Takes a little longer but less risk of leaks during the bleeding process. Keep a bucket of cold water standing by to wash off spillages immediately from paintwork or skin.
Good luck
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Have you thought of using Silicone based Fluid? This does not absorb water and does not require regular changes.
Any comments from other people who have used it ? Can anybody suggest the best way of flushing out the old fluid?
I have seen comments on its compressibility and subsequent loss of pedal feel. Is this a valid comment? I am thinking of changing fluids in my 82 TR7, since it is due for a change and to minimise any future corrosion problems. I am wondering if to change all hoses at the same time to steel braided.
Sorry if I have hijacked the original question.
PS I have used Gunson Easibleed for years with no problems.
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I have heard arguments for and against silicone fluid (compressibility etc.) Aparrently older jags just wont work with it. I used it in my '69 Marcos with no problems and found that bu replacing the standard flexi hoses with Goodridge steel braide racing hosesthe pedal feel was unnoticeable.
Good luck
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Peter
I've used silicone fluid for a few years in a Minor, and it's been fine. No bleed problems, and the brake pedal is fine. There has been a thread on this a while back, and one 'reader' is now using this in an Audi. Given the advantages, it beats me why it's not in common use - I'm told it's standard in the US military for example.
Regards
John
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I must be missing something here. I have bled dozens of cars over the years, including dual circuits, and I just use the ordinary tube and a jamjar and do it single-handed. I think the trick is not to open the bleed nipple by more than half a turn, so that air/fluid can't run back up the pipe, but the pressure from the pedal forces the fluid out.
Incidently, not many people know that you can replace a master cylinder without having to rebleed the whole system, by leaving the pipes slightly loose and pumping slowly to expel the air - like bleeding air from a cental heating radiator
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Everyone, many thanks for your valued comments. I have just ordered an Ezibleed kit from www.gunson.co.uk and will post a quick report when I've done the deed. I've already earmarked the spare tyre to use as an air source.
The replacement DOT4 fluid has already been bought, so I won't be complicating the job with silicone fluid.
Thank you all again.
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