Hi, I recently received some excellent advice about an abs problem I had, I'm hoping for the same result here.
The windows on the drivers side, front and back, have started to beep when opening or closing. They still work and it doesn't happen on the passenger side.
Does anyone know what this means?
Thanks, John
|
In order for the one-shot-up and anti-trap functions to be able to work, the electronics controling the windows needs to be able to measure the speed of the windows as they go up and also know the windows position so it knows where the top is. This is done by means of Hall sensors in each motor.
When the electronics has lost its "memory" (usually after a power disconnection) the anti-trap and one-shot-up features are disabled and to alert you to this the ecu bleeps when the windows are operated.
To reset: ensure windows are fully closed. Then one window at a time, fully open the window, keeping your finger on the button till the bleeps stop. Repeat this in the up direction. This should reset the electronics (don't forget the sunroof too).
If they won't reset, then it is quite likely there is a wiring fault or a fault in the motor sensors. Since several windows seem to have failed at the same time I would suspect wiring. Check all connections, especially those to the ecu - situated on the lower A pillar near the drivers right foot.
|
|
Wish I'd known this when I had my Sterling - I had exact same problem!
|
|
|
|
My Rover Vitesse has had this problem.Mine has air con so the windows are not used very often. I found that the grease on the lift machansims had gone hard. I cleaned it off and applied fresh grease and all was fine. The other problem area is the Central Control Unit located under the drivers side dash behind the fuse box. This controls the windows, alarm, HRW etc. It has a self check function built in initiated by turning the ignition on with the instruments dimmer control pressed to +. I am happy to email the relevant pages from the Rover electrical fault finding manual to interested owners.
|
|
yes please v8man - you'll find my email in my profile.
|
|
|
|
|
Hi Guzzler-I had the same warning buzzer after I changed my battery.It's all ok now.Just as a matter of interest, is your abs now working ok after replacing the sensor?
regards
Derek East
|
This is a bit odd. I didn't disconnect the battery before the windows started beeping and after following the above instructions all the windows are working perfectly except the drivers window, which goes down with one touch and no beeps but needs the button pressed constantly when closing, accompanied by beeps.
Obviously something wrong here but I think I can live with the noise.
As for the abs, Derek, I changed the sensor and it appears to be fine, at least the light goes off now. And it was the nearside front as you suggested.
Thanks for the help, all
|
one of the reasons I gave up on Rover was the same failure 11 times in 3 years on my 820i.. And the w###... sorry... wasters at the Rover garage never fixed it properly. I believe later models were much better but my last (1994) model was decidely dodgy.
madf
|
|
|
Hi Guzzler I'm doing my abs at the weekend-did you have any difficulties or was it straightforward?
With regard to 800 reliability the abs failure was the first thing to go wrong on this car in 7 years-mind you i do all my own servicing .I've had a 400 diesel as well which was superb
Derek East
|
Derek, it's pretty straightforward, it goes back as it comes out. Having said that, there were two fiddly areas.
1. The metal blocks carrying the sensor. Get new ones as the hassle of trying to salvage the old ones is not worth it.
2. Running the lead through the metal carriers was also a bit of a pain involving bending the metal around.
I was doing by the roadside and had it done in under 2 hours, if you've got a bench to hand it should be a lot easier.
Break a leg:~)
John
|
|
|
|
The functionality you describe for the drivers window is correct for one that has lost its memory - there is no danger of trap involved with winding the window down.
Try reprogramming it again - if the problem recurs or does not remidy then check the wiring.
Why feeding the wiring through the bracket? Didn't the new sensor come with a bracket on it? only held onto the strut by 2 10mm screws.
|
|
No strut bracket or the bracket fixed to the wheelarch/engine compartment, hence the fiddle. Only the lead and the 4 or 5 rubber grommets fitted, which also need to be moved around to match the originals.
|
Must have been a cheap sensor then! All the ones I've seen have the bracket affixed to the wiring.
MG-Rover Problems? forums.mg-rover.org
|
It was just under £70, certainly cheaper than the £150 + quoted elsewhere. Did the ones you've seen have one or two brackets fitted, as the one which bolts onto the engine compartment was a bit of a nuisance to get back on.
The lead itself appeared no different to the one which came off.
|
Where did you get it from?
Sounds very cheap to me!
Who was it made by? It should have all the brackets there if it were a Bosch part....
MG-Rover Problems? forums.mg-rover.org
|
Got it from Best of British on the rover mart site
It appears to be made by Bosch, it came in a sealed Bosch box and as I mentioned it was idential to the old one, minus the brackets and muck.
Do bosch make these sensors only for Rover? And would it be the same fitting across the range of cars Rover make?
I should add that it is still working, abs light comes on and then goes off after starting, and the abs itself is working as I noticed a few days ago!
|
Bosch do indeed make the majority of the ABS sensors across the Euro car parc - I've actually bought these sensors from Bosch directly and they come with the metal brackets attached - that's why I'm so perplexed as to why yours were missing.
The sensor you have is not common across the Rover range - the new ones are all plastic!
Sounds as though it's working OK!
MG-Rover Problems? forums.mg-rover.org
|
I know people like to get some feedback to the queries on the B.R. so I thought I would let you know what happened with my window.
I dont drive the car now, my wife does and about 6 weeks ago she came home (she usually does) saying that the window won't close.
After enquiring it appeared that it had been getting more and more difficult to close until eventually it had stuck.
I got it closed with a struggle, the motor was still working up and down but when I got the cover off the door I could see that though the motor was fine, the metal frame it comes in had snapped.
One second hand motor, £35 from a breaker and a few hours work and voila, perfect up and down and no noise.
If only I had left it there but no, I decided to open and close all the other windows, just to be sure you know?
Now the back drivers side window goes up and, when it reaches the top, comes back down again, its like a yo-yo. In order to close the window you need to press up and then, just as it gets to the top, blip the down button.
If you're not quick enough it comes back down, too quick and its not shut properly so you need to start again.
Will it never end?
John
|
Disconnect the battery and re-initialise the windows...that should cure it.
If not, the sensing brush has failed....new motor required :-(
|
|
Thanks David, I'll try that again, but as I said I'm not driving it so I'll let Bori mess around with it:-)
|
I hadn't tried disconnecting the battery before so I gave that a go earlier and everything is now working perfectly, up and down one touch and closing on the remote.
I'm sure you, and others, would have a liver problem if you took up all the drinks you were owed.
Thanks a lot,
John
|
|
|
|
