Tried to change the cambelt on my mk2 1.8gti 8v this weekend. Went to remove the crankshaft pully & the 4 allen key bolts are well rusted in.
Haven't yet rounded off the bolts. Tried to get a pair of grips round the outside, but they didn't budge. I've sprayed WD40 on them to see if this helps.
Any other ideas on getting them out? Can only think of using a punch\chisel to see if they'll turn.
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Plus Gas is supposed to be a better penetrating oil than WD40 but I don't suppose it's *that* much better.
A few months ago I asked a question about exhaust studs:
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?v=i&t=57...8
It's no specific to your application but will be useful, I think.
Good luck 'cos I think you're gonna end up with a drill.
--
These are my own opinions, and not necessarily those of all Toads.
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Gentle heat from a blowtorch (cambelt dead after this ) and WD40 applied when hot might help.
If all else fails a cold chisel works wonders.. or try tightening them to break the seal..(just a little of course)
madf
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or try some vineagr.. better searching action.. tend sto dissolve rust (but allow 1-2 days)
madf
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I can't be absolutely 100% sure about the following advice, since it is about three years since I tackled one of these and I am relying on my fairly hopeless memory, but....
The entire crank pulley assembly is attached to the crank via a single large central bolt, and aligned via a keyway. If you undo the large bolt (select top gear, chock the wheels and use a long breaker bar) you can remove the whole assembly. This means you can easily heat the offending allen bolts with a blowtorch, also tap the hex bit firmly into its socket to minimise the chance of rounding off. Be very careful to ensure you don't knock out the key in the crankshaft, especially when refitting the pulley. And do the central bolt up nice and tight, perhaps with a spot of threadlock for good measure.
However, I cannot remember whether there is enough clearance between crank pulley and inner wing on a Golf , to be able to withdraw the pulley assembly. The technique certainly worked on an Audi 80 after I had rounded off a bolt head, but that car had a longitudinal engine with plenty of space in front of it.
If you can't remove the pulley, then soak the bolts in WD40 or similar for a couple of days, then make sure you pick out all the gunge from the recessed bolt heads, and tap the hex bit until it hits the bottom of the socket. These bolts always seem very tight, then undo with a 'crack'. The only time I have had problems is where I have rounded one off due to the driver bit being either not properly seated or of poor quality.
Richard Hall
bangernomics.tripod.com
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I think you are fairly spot on there Richard. There is enough room on the golf to remove the pulley, it is on the polo after 1991 (mk3) that you have to loosen off the engine mount and then lever the engine over slighty. If you do go for removing the crank bolt then release the tension in the belt first before trying to remove the crank sprocket, oh and it is probably advisable to replace the main crank bolt if you remove it(very tight fit), some manuals recommend using locking fluid as well.
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The best way i found to remove these bolts is to put it in gear and get someone to put their foot firmly on the brake, then use the hexagon head(make sure to tap it in well with hammer) with a nice size breaker bar. Try soaking the bolts with coca-cola. As for the water pump pulley, use a pipe wrench to grip the other bolts while undoing one at a time. I hope this helps!
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