Hi folks,
I am going to change the MAF on my 1.9 Tdi PD 130 BHP VW Bora,because it`s surely faulty(Limp mode happened twice in the near past,cleaned out the MAF then went well again).
So can anyone tell me which MAF shall I buy?
I am going to buy a BOSCH part but I don`t know the part number.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 29/01/2010 at 16:59
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Eurocarparts website lets you search for parts based on your registration.
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The OE part no. should be on your present MAF.
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How do you know its the MAF ?
Limp mode resets when you turn the ignition off then back on. Cleaning it could just be a coincidence.
If it went into limp mode when the car was pulling under load i.e accelerating up a steep hill, then this would point to overboosting and stuck variable vanes in the turbo.
Edited by Mr.Tee43 on 29/01/2010 at 15:32
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MAF failure on these, although very common, is normally indicated by poor accelerator response and loss of power, which improves noticeably when you disconnect the MAF. I don't think they put the engine into limp mode, at least the ones I've known fail anyway.
The turbo vane issue Mr.Tee points out is quite common. What was the engine doing each time it went into limp mode? If it was accelerating hard, that's a good pointer.
Do you know anyone with VAG-COM who can read the codes for you?
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Thanks for everyone to respond.
Well...First time when it went to limp mode(felt lost about 20-30BHP),I`ve turned off the engine,then turn on,and after the car went well.But after 40 miles it went again to limp mode.
I cleaned the MAF,and sprayed with WD40 the turbo actuator rod after I had arrived home.
One of the solution fixed the problem,because I`ve driven 4000 miles(approx 2500 miles on motorway) without any problem since then.
Then last week,I was on a very long way again on the motorway,the car went to limp mode again.
I could not spray the turbo actuator rod there in the parking place next to the motorway,so I cleaned only the MAF.I had put it back,and after drove 800 miles without limp mode or any problem.
That is why I guess it must be the MAF,cause if it was turbo vane issue,the MAF cleaning would not fix anything.
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In additional my mechanicer says the car has not got 130 BHP.
Says it is about 105-110 BHP.
And it is always like that,not only in limp mode.
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The engine power rating is on a printed slip stuck in the front of the service book & repeated on a similar slip stuck in the spare wheel well.
The slip shows the VIN No as well as other build info.
Somewhere on there will be the engine power in KW.
96KW - 130BHP.
84KW - 115BHP.
81KW - 110BHP.
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If you want a new MAF, contact your local Bosch dealer. They should be able to get the right one from your reg plate.
The ebay MAFs are best avoided in my experience.
www.boschautoparts.co.uk/bdl/loc_search.asp?strLoc...t
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Hey guys,
I have unplugged the MAF,and the car went worse then ever.
Does it mean the MAF is allright,or it still can cause the limp mode and the power loss?
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Got this error code:
17965/P1557/005463 - Charge Pressure Control: Positive Deviation
Possible Symptoms
* Reduced power output
* Limp mode
Possible Causes
* Boost Pressure too High
* Hoses/Pipes incorrect connected, disconnected, blocked or leaking
* Charger Pressure Control defective
o VNT (variable nozzle turbo): nozzles stuck
* Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75) defective
Possible Solutions
* Check Hoses/Pipes to/between Components
* Check Solenoid Valve for Boost Pressure Control (N75)
* Check / Clean / Replace Charge Pressure Control
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Check ALL the small bore vacuum pipes, expecially any that go to the turbo, and replace all that look suspect.
Then check that Turbo rod again. It is VERY common for thenm to stick. (The N75 solenoid is also a common failure...)
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Hi I hope this helps others with my find! I have had this problem with the car going into limp mode (re-sets its self when switched off), after 2 years of putting up with it and putting redex in the diesel I changed the air flow meter, boost control valve and all the vacuum pipes with no change. Last week I pulled the vacuum pipe off the turbo and sucked it (no jokes!) like trying to suck a stone through a straw then I heard a metallic click and like a rusty creaking sound. After doing this a few times it was easier to suck lol and you could here the sound with every time. When taking the car for a test drive what a difference power all through the rev range rather than just high boost for 2000rpm then dropping off. I hope this helps other people as I have spent hours reading about this fault and the cost others have gone through with garages telling people they need a new turbo! Mine was an easy fix but others might not be, one thought if you could make a vacuum stronger than the one used to open the vains on the turbo then this could free it up without having to suck the pipe or strip the turbo?
also check out 00 bora limp home mode as there are a few helpfull hints on how to free up turbo.
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Thank you guys for the responds!!
ARK EYE which pipe shoul i try to suck?The pipe which goes to the actuator?
So where did you suck it?Up where the n75 is or the other end at the actuator ends?
I mean pull down at the n75-end the pipe and suck there?
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You need to suck the pipe that connects to the vacuum actuator located on the turbo.
So either disconnect this pipe at the N75 valve end or remove the pipe at the actuator end & fit another suitable length of tube that you can suck on.
Makes my cheecks sting just thinkink about it LOL.
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Do you know guys where can I buy the N75 for my Bora?
I`ve tried at TMS but no luck :S ...
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