www.autoexpress.co.uk/products/products/203129/flu...l
Yep, that's the Screwfix one I've got,which appears to be a Pela 6000 in all but name.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 11/01/2010 at 12:50
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Just called by Machine Mart and bought the Pela 6000. Had a look in the box and it all looks good. Will do a change on the C3 by the weekend and report back.
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One thing, on my Vectra then I have to rotate & wiggle the tube as I stick it down the dipstick 'ole or it doesn't reach the near the bottom of the sump, maybe similar on other cars.
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Thanks M.M. This thread has got me interested in one so I look forward to your report.
Has anyone used one on a Focus I 1800 Petrol and know if there are any obstructions to prevent 100% of the oil being removed?
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>Has anyone used one on a Focus I 1800 Petrol and know if there are any obstructions to prevent 100% of the oil being removed?<
the dipstick is a long bit of metal , running down into the sump , if it gets wet with oil , then oil is there , therefore a bit of plastic/rubber tube placed in its place , would have oil on it ,,,,suck suck , oil gone
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>>suck suck , oil gone
Yes, it has gone down to the bottom of the dipstick level. But what if below that there is a horizontal baffle stopping the pipe getting right down to the bottom of the sump?
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BTW thanks to SpamCan for giving the link (much further up the thread) to a marine supplier with these at about £36 inc carriage. I happened to be passing Machine Mart and impulse bought at £44 as staying in for deliveries is a nightmare for me.
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>>>suck suck , oil gone
Yes, it has gone down to the bottom of the dipstick level. But what if below that there is a horizontal baffle stopping the pipe getting right down to the bottom of the sump?<
um ? , the dip stick says empty and full , and goes to the BOTTOM of the sump , try a wielding rod down the hole , listen for noises on the sump when you tap it.
whats the point of a dipstick , that only goes halfway
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um ? the dip stick says empty and full and goes to the BOTTOM of the sump try a wielding rod down the hole listen for noises on the sump when you tap it.
Erm no it does'nt, it says min and max
whats the point of a dipstick that only goes halfway
Why does it need to touch the bottom of the sump?
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>>> um ? the dip stick says empty and full and goes to the BOTTOM of the sump try a wielding rod down the hole listen for noises on the sump when you tap it. whats the point of a dipstick that only goes halfway
>>
Eh? I'm not a mechanic but dipsticks tell you whether there is insufficient oil or too much oil in the sump, not if the sump is empty or full. Dipsticks are designed to reach just below the ideal oil level I think, or have I got that wrong all these years!? Not sure what the typical distance between the bottom of an inserted dipstick and the bottom of the sump is, but surely it's the about the height of the oil once it's all drained in to the sump?
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>>Dipsticks are designed to reach just below the ideal oil level I think, or have I got that wrong all these years!?
No, quite right. I posted a couple of weeks ago that I pulled the dipstick on my daughter's friends's Fiesta, and it was bone dry. Obviously, this does NOT mean there is no oil left in the sump! Judging by the amount added to bring it back up to the mark, it was actually about half full.
Edited by dieselfitter on 11/01/2010 at 15:24
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You're right, uksant. The min mark on the dipstick is, as the name suggests, the minimum level of oil that the engine can run on without damage. That level may be 30mm from the bottom of the sump.
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SCs link is showing £30.64 +£6.99carriage = £37.63 A better price than ebay!
The Screwfix one is £41.99 +carriage. However as I am on their emailing list they are sending me a 10% off discount code every few days, as long as I spend £50.Carriage free. So that's £37.79 as long as I want some other items.
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I'm sure I paid about £25 from a marine supplies retailer (on line) for the 6 litre capacity one, but that was about 5 years ago.
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the dipstick is a long bit of metal running down into the sump if it gets wet with oil then oil is there therefore a bit of plastic/rubber tube placed in its place would have oil on it suck suck oil gone
Firstly dipsticks do not go to the bottom of the sump and many of them are shaped flat thin metal or wire meaning a suction tube will not be able to follow the path of the dipstick and find its way to the oil.
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Hi
a poster has already stated here that he used one of these suckers and then took out the drain plug. the result was just a few drops of oil.
it would be good is some mechanic here used the suckers in a couple of different models and then removed the oil drain plug and posted results.
I'm no mechanic but i'm assuming that the sump trays drain away to the sump oil drain plug. therefore the tube of the sucker needs to get there.
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Audi A4 2003 1.9 tdi - the Comma website states oil capacity as 4.3 litres. On average, I manage to extract say 3.7 litres. On the basis that the filter is still holding some oil (say 0.3 litres?) then I'm getting at least 90% - 95% out. Also need to bear in mind that there must be some oil in other nooks and crannies, then (in this model anyway) the hose must be reaching the bottom of the sump (it does always seem to go in quite a way).
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Sorry, uksant, my mistake. The last tdi I did was the pumpe duse engine, which would be higher capacity for the unit injectors.
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Pela say that the probe should be inserted until you hear it hit the bottom of the sump. They also say that the extractor is unsuitable for engines with a sharp bend at the bottom of the dipstick tube, in which case the probe can't reach the sump at all. Unfortunately, we don't have a list of engines with this feature.
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That's a good point, dieselfitter. When you remove the sump plug, you know that the sump is going to be emptied. If a DIY mechanic has not read the instructions before using the extractor (who does?), he may not insert the pipe to the bottom of the sump.
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This thread should win an award for comedy.
People who clearly know nothing about dipsticks, sumps, oil levels giving advice to others.
This week we'll try an oil change 2L out 5L in, next week they'll be doing blood transfusions on the back of this experience.
10/10 for entertainment, keep it up
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Some interesting points from SteveLee & dieselfitter, and on that basis I wouldn't use a sucker on my Almera, until I was sure that my dipsick wasn't curved at the end or that it was wide enough at the bottom to allow the sucker to go 'all the way man'
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It could be the `last straw` of course for a rusty sump - if the nylon pipe pokes straight through the bottom and starts sucking up the puddle on the drive.
Powerful suction can remove the high quality zinc off the more expensive sump interiors - (allegedly Ford) leaving bare sucker marks like when one of those small catfish moves across your fish tank.
Not good when the Manufacturer has invested all that money into the`sump nut`
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Powerful suction can remove the high quality zinc off the more expensive sump interiors. <<
This is a joke, aye ?
Regarding not removing "every drop of old oil" - no method manages this.
The most important function of oil changes with modern spec oils is renewing the 'additive pack' of the oil, so simply removing >50% of the oil every 10,000 miles rather than 90% of the oil every 20,000 miles is probably preferable. Synthetic oils are very resistant to physical deterioration of the oil itself, compared to the additive packs.
When you take your automatic gearbox for an 'oil change' you'll be lucky if 35% of the fluid is changed if the dealer simply drains/refills the gearbox as most torque converters hold a large part of the ATF.
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the`sump nut`
From what I read the`sump nut` is a dying breed. :-)
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>>People who clearly know nothing about dipsticks, sumps, oil levels giving advice to others
Not sure who that's aimed at.
Speaking for myself I responded to the question as somebody who actually uses a sucker.
On the Honda 2.2 i-CTDI in the CRV II, the 6 litre Pela is nearly full when it starts sucking air. As the nominal oil capacity of the engine is 6 litres, I'm happy with that.
I agree that many people want to give an opinion on every question, whether they actually know the answer or not. I try to resist that; when I can't, I usually make it clear that I'm speculating or repeating hearsay.
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I measure what comes out via my pela pump and its the same as the amount of new oil i put in ,i also put the suction tube into the oil filter housing there is usually some old oil left there . Well worth the price for between service oil changes . i paid £29 +postage v happy with it. Think marine shops/chandlers are cheapest as pumps are widely used or boat engines.see
www.marine-super-store.com/posit/shop/index.php?se...1
Edited by guss on 11/01/2010 at 23:52
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Not sure who that's aimed at. >
Its aimed at some of the farcical posts here.
I'd also like an answer to the above question which has been ignored by the pros, copied below
"If you don't remove the engine cover how do you check the condition of the sump (cracks / rot speed bump damage etc), crank seals etc? What about the bottom of radiators for signs of weepage? weeping pas pipes the list goes on and on....................."
If I pay for an annual service / inspection I'd expect a report of any possible problems that are pending, if you don't remove the engine lower cover how can you inspect everything for leaks? If the answer is that the under tray is removed then you may as well undo the drain plug...............
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OK, answer to the above.
On a lot of cars you dont need to remove the undertray to remove the sump plug, so using a topsider doesnt really make that difference. Sometimes you have to remove undertray to get at the filter. Manufacturers are generally working toward use of topsiders by their dealers and having filter access from above.
As part of service checklist there will be a 'car on ramps' section and relevant parts can usually be inspected, from above and below, without removal of undertray. Inspection of base of radiator is not normally part of a service.
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>>If you don't remove the engine cover how do you check the condition of ...
Fair question, to which you could add how can you call it a service if you don't take the wheels off? Less "inspecting" and a bit more servicing would be my preference.
One of the several reasons I use an independent friend for servicing is that a service includes removing the wheels, and ensuring the brake calipers are free.
Contrast that with the reader's report in HJ this weekend that he was charged £28 for separating his alloy wheels from the hubs by his Skoda dealer - a charge for previous negligent servicing in my opinion.
Incidentally, the CRV has a little trap door for access to the drain plug - thankfully the tray doesn't have to come off so doesn't end up flapping about as the fixings go missing!
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I mentioned this, Dox, earlier in the thread as a downside to the oil suckers.
The fact is that they can't thoroughly check for leaks etc. on the areas you highlight without taking off the engine tray. While it could be argued that you can see some areas from the top or through the cut outs in the tray, there's a lot you can't, especially considering how crowded the engine bay is on modern cars.
The oil suckers are about saving the fitter time. For example, the amount of time VAG allow for a 'lubrication service', could easily be swallowed up by removing/refitting an awkward (or worse, damaged) engine tray. In fact, most fitters leave a damaged tray off; the last three cars I've worked on had fittings for but no tray.
However, even without having to remove a tray, the sucker saves time: not having to get the car on the lift (if it's just in for the oil change), no (possibly rounded off) sump plug to remove/refit etc. etc.
You're quite right to expect, on a full service, that the engine bay and other areas are inspected for any present or pending problems. Even when just doing an oil change, while I'm underneath, I always shine my lamp around, just takes a minute or so, to check for problems.
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