Just had the first repeat of last year's problem where SWMBOs Fiesta 1.1 cuts out within 1/2 mile of setting out with a cold engine.
It does this because the oil is partly emulsified, and bunging up a breather pipe (?) which goes from the oil filler cap. I can start the car just by removing the cap, letting it run for a few seconds then replacing it. It's then fine until the next time.
I discussed this here last year, and as a result replaced the head gasket and did some other bits, all to no avail. The problem is she does about 2 miles (or less) each way to work, and barely any other mileage. The particular engine type is prone to moisture which therefore never gets burnt off.
I remember very well all the ideas from last year, thanks for those, but today's question is simple.
Can I remove the breather pipe during the winter, and what ill-effect will that have, if any?
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Due to this problem being caused by the "district nurse" syndrome, would it not be advisable to take it for a good thrash once a week to clear out the cobwebs and moisture in the oil/exhaust, ect? Or even maybe vary the route to work every now and again?
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I seem to remember my brother used to lag the rocker cover with insulating material (I think he used the recycled padding stuff that car makers use as wadding behind dashes, etc.).
Hopefully this will stop condensation building up on the inside of the cover and help relieve your problem...
Maybe keep the car in a dry garage as well?
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My son bought a 1.1 L reg with 50k miles. We serviced it and it had the same problem so we cleared it all out, changed the oil and filters. I had the same problem many years ago with a 1947 Rover 16 driven only in towns.. (I did buy it very second hand as a student so I am NOT that old:-)
It is casued byc ondensation of any moisture in the combustion chambers or oil being evaporated from the piston /cylinder head area and condensing on the colder pipes external to the engine.
The ONLY cure is at least 1 journey a week of a reasonable length and time to warm evrything up to clear the external pipes. I would suggest 10 miles /30 minutes at >40mph. That should evaporate everything.
He now drives 20miles/day to and from University with friends and the problem has vanished. But on holidays with town running it reappears but not badly. Now the winter is coming and we have morning frosts it will recur..
Lagging may help but the only solution is to really warm the whole engine up ..
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Only two solutions I can see:
1. as suggested above, get it thoroughly warm regularly,
2. fit an pre-heater to the engine so it is almost at working temperature when you start up. Less wear too.
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Yup, I thought the Italian tune up was the answer.
But what's this about pre-heaters? Where, how much, how do they work?
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I haven't seen a pre-heater advertised for a while but I think they are still made, maybe by Kenlowe (the electric cooling fan company). Often sold for classic cars, in fact some old cars had them as optional extras back in the 50's and 60's.
Basically all they do is heat the water in the cooling system or less commonly, the oil in the sump. Commonest type is a heater element that you put in the the top or bottom hose (can't remember which) and plug into the mains. I think they may have a timer so you can set it to come on say an hour before you use the car. The water is heated and travels round the system by convection (so probably the bottom hose then) so when you come to start up, the engine is close to operating temperature straight away. Benefits are less wear, better starting, better fuel comsumption (no choke/enrichment needed) and a fully- functioning heater straight away. They are less popular these days because cars start much more reliably and have better heaters. But as most engine wear is in the first few minutes of running they are probably worthwhile as they should help reduce that significantly.
The biggest drawback is the hassle of plugging it in at night and remembering to disconnect before you drive off.
The other type, which I don't think is made anymore, is a heater element which replaces the sump plug and heats the oil thus giving better circulation on startup. The warm air in the sump also heated the rest of the engine up too. These probably died out as oil technology improved.
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someone else with the same idea! see the 'thrashed from cold' topic.
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It's not just the condensation-too many cold starts will cause the oil to be diluted with fuel-down the bores.If you are not going to change your vehicle usage,then get a diesel.
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Also,if you have the option,swing your air cleaner spout to hot air.
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