hi,
i've bought a pug but i cant find where to get a cam belt tensi0n testing tool any ideas,
also i've had a good look round and granted i dont really know what im looking for but i cant find any sort of how to for fitting lowering springs, and are they enought to achieve what im going for(40mm drop) or do i need to change dampers and torsion bars and all that malarky.
any help at all would be really appriciated.
Peace.
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 08/10/2009 at 20:26
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From memory you do not need a cambelt tensioning tool.
The tensioner is spring loaded and self- tensioning. Undo the locking bolt, turn the engine a few times by hand and re do the locking nut.
If you want to remove the cambelt use a 3/8 ratchet with a short extension bar with a 3/8 square end. Undo the locknut put the square end in a square hole on the tensioner, turn the ratchet and remove the tension on the belt. Redo the locknut and you can remove the belt.
Sorry I'm not going to get into the suspension lowering thing.
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I'm not 100% but wasn't the dynamic tentioner only added to models after mid 1999?
since mine is a 98 model, this was the original reason for the question if it had a dynamic tensioner there would have been no need?
Please do correct me if i'm wrong coz to be honest i can do without having to buy a tool i will only need every 36,000 miles
:-)
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Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought all XUD engines were self tensioning.
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Awesome thanks for your help, i can only assume you have a great deal of expirience with this kind of thing and will therefore take your answer as gospel.
i think i was getting confused by the haynes it was the 16 v pre 1999 that didnt have a dynamic tensioner.
but thanks for clearing that up for me.
ultimatly thats a bonus and you've saved me money so cheers.
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Silly question, but are you sure about lowering it? It's one of the best handling FWD cars ever made and lowering actually makes it worse. Say what you like about Peugeot, but they knew how to make cars go around corners better than anything else at that time.
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DP
I think you miss the point. He probably doesn't care about the roadholding; he just wants The Look.
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Hi, in response to your message I went out this weekend to a 1994 xud I've got in my garden. There is a spring which tensions the belt tensioner BUT you have to adjust the first setting of the tensioner with a square drive and a locking nut. I'm guessing that the spring only allows for wear after being properly set up using the electronic tension tool.
As for lowering, clamps on the front spring will work, like the ones in halfords etc. Concrete in the boot will lower the rear. ;-) or just put smaller tyres on
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"There is a spring which tensions the belt tensioner BUT you have to adjust the first setting of the tensioner with a square drive and a locking nut. I'm guessing that the spring only allows for wear after being properly set up using the electronic tension tool."
No - the spring sets the tension at belt change time - the square drive hole is there to rotate the tensioner againt the spring when you want to remove the belt. No gauge needed for these - push the tensioner back against the spring and nip the lock nut up under the cam sprocket; fit belt (carefully it's easy to drop a tooth twixt crank and IP); hold the tensioner back against the spring and slack the lock nut off; allow the spring to press the tensioner against the belt; nip the lock nut up; rotate the engine two revs forward, slack the lock nut off to allow the spring to do it's job; check the engine is still in time; tighten the lock nut and pivot nut. Once tightened, the tension is set till the next change - the spring does nothing.
The ZX Volcane (and possibly 306 D Turbo) were lower as standard. The front can be lowered with shorter springs, the rear needs the torsion bars pulling out and rotating - no mean feat on a 10yr old car....!
Edited by RichardW on 12/10/2009 at 13:38
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Huge surprise (never seen one before) - this afternoon, a lowered 306 in Moonstone Blue.
It looked... er... how shall I put it? Not to my taste.
Edited by ChrisPeugeot on 12/10/2009 at 18:39
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Yes you are right. That makes much more sense. So you just need a square drive and a spanner. There is a second nut on the pivot point that needs to be slackened when you slacken the lock nut or else it might drag and not tension properly. It was pretty loose on my engine though, perhaps not tightened properly last time.
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thanks for the replies everybody,
I think I might just get slightly larger wheels for the car (but this is by no means a priority at the moment it was just an after thought really as i DO like the look of a lowered 306, but i DO also like its handling) before i think about this does any one know, will this upset the dive shaft at all i'm just thinking does putting a bigger wheel on the car change its relationship to the drive shaft at all?
if any of you would be so kind could you also have a look at my more recent post about rounded bolts please as i really need some help there.
cheers :-)
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