I have not changed these before. I have heard that to remove the disc two bolts are screwed in. My questions are: what size bolts? Where is the shoe release if the discs jam on the way off? Does the brake hose stay on? Any helpful hints or special tools required?
Thanks for any contributions.
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I should have also said that the car is afriends and miles away so I will only see it when the job starts. I am hoping to simply take out the pads, undo the caliper and hang it up still attached by the hose, then remove the disc using two bolts of unknown size hoping that the shoes don't catch. and that there are no surprises.
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Don't know if they are the sames as on the bug-eye as yours is the facelift but if so:-
1. Remove bottom caliper bolt totally.
2. Undo top caliper bolt & (if i remember correctly the caliper will pull off towards the inside of the wheel arch).
3. Tie up the caliper with some string doubled up or cable tie to suspension spring (so as not to strain flexible break hose)
4. Remove pads from caliper back plate.
5. Remove bolts from caliper back plate
6. Remove caliper back plate.
7. Tap disc with rubber mallet & try to pull off from hub (make sure car is chocked & handbrake released or the disc won't come off!)
8. If it won't come off you need to back off handbrake shoes- on the backplate remove the blanking plug and back off clearance with a screwdriver. It's a screwthread that can be pushed up or down with a screwdriver through the inspection hole. It's trial & error; one way tightens shoe clearance to the inside of the drum (inside the disc) & other backs it off. Try turning one way then the other & see if it becomes easier to try to slide off or worse & continue with the way that it becomes easier until the disc slides off.
9. (suggest replace shoes as well as pads for new discs)
Reassembly is reverse of above but note:-
10. Reassemble cleaning new disc faces with solvent to remove transit grease. Don't forget to clean inner face for handbrake shoes on disc or handbrake will never hold- solvent gain.
11. Push back piston (with g-clamp or caliper tool) for caliper watching fluid in master cylinder doesn't spill over.
12. Grease contact points for shoes ON THE BACK PLATE (RAISED POINTS) where they meet back plate.
13.. Grease REAR of pads (not friction surfaces) with copper grease to stop brake squeal.
14. When reassebled pump brakes on each side before strip down other side.
15. When reassembling make sure you wind screwthread for shoes so that disc will only just side on over top. Pull handbrake on & off & check that it is just a tight fit & not binding.
16. Check fliud level in master cylinder before road testing.
17. New handbrake shoes need bedding in! Clear road 30mph pull handbrake on a couple of clicks & let car slow down with handbrake on. Allow to cool & do a couple of more time to rough up shoes & handbrake to fully operate. If this is not done the handbrake won't hold!
18. Same goes with pads for new discs, they need beddding in so no heavy breaking for a few hundred miles. Try to anticipate your breaking with smooth progressive breaking!
If not confident of performing the above seek expert help! Brakes are critical components.
Good Luck!
Edited by ScoobyNut on 21/11/2009 at 13:55
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Scoobynut - thanks for the comprehensive reply. This was for my car and all went smoothly in the end. I had let the rear pads get pretty low and now, after a few hundred miles of new rear pads and disks the braking performance of the car has been transformed!
Incidentally I managed to get a new pair of rear ventilated OEM discs for £49 - saved me a few pennies compared to a dealer!
Thanks again
Paul
Edited by PST on 05/01/2010 at 09:56
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