Driver's side window will not open. All other windows work perfectly. When I press the switch for 'open', I can hear a faint click from behind the door trim. I get the same noise if I lift the switch as if to open the window.
All wiring to the switch appears in good order.
I have not removed the insulation behind the door trim, so I have not yet looked at the window regulator mechanism.
Is it likely to be a fault with the regulator motor?
If so, how do I test it to be certain that this is the faulty item?
|
Probably the regulator motor.
I don't know Pugs, but if it's anything like the OEM units on my Chevy, the regulator motor has inbuilt overcurrent protection that deteriorates with use. Symptoms usually start with the window winding down OK but only raising a few inches when trying to push a few lbs of glass back into the closed position.
Testing is really limited to measuring the current draw by the motor to see if it cuts out before it's max rating. If you know it's max rating :-)
In reality, once you've got the door in bits, you might as well replace the motor - don't fall for the dealer story that the motor is only supplied complete with the regulator. GM Europe tried to charge me £400 for a regulator plus motor when I could get an aftermarket replacement from Bosch US for $50.
Kevin...
|
Thank you, Kevin, for your helpful comments.
Whatever parts are needed, I will certainly not be going to a dealer but to a breaker.
I was hoping to be sure it was not a switch problem before removing the insulation from behind the door trim.
John
|
|
If one of the other window switches is the same as the drivers door one, it might be possible to temporarily change it over and eliminate the switch.
|
|
|
Testing the switch is easy. If you don't have a multimeter use a low wattage auto lamp, something like an instrument panel or interior light, and a piece of wire. If the terminals aren't accessible because of the connector remove the switch and check it with a meter or use the lamp again with the battery as a power source.
Power to the regulator motor will probably be via a relay or controller card so you'll need to check that as well.
If it is the regulator motor make sure that any replacement from a breaker doesn't have the same problem.
Kevin...
|
As you say, testing the switch was easy with 12v tester.
I managed to get the light to come on, so I am now convinced that the motor has failed.
Next job is to locate a replacement and test it out.
Thank you.
|
If you can identify that a rear offside window motor is the same as the front (no reason not to be) i'd go for the rear motor as it will have less use than the drivers window.
|
|
|
|
|
