Might i also suggest the OP gets some paint protection film fitted on the bumper and other parts prone to stone chips. Use of a good wax/sealant will help the paint stay fresh and make it easier to clean. Maybe some good fabric protector for the inside, rubber boot liner and keeping the alloys clean. All helps and adds up to a car looking nice and new.
I think the way the car is driven is also important, reduce the short journeys, taking it for a long run if you do commute locally. etc.....
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The chap who owns this vehicle polishes waxes and washes.
touches up bodywork and so on.
It`s just four years old
www.oilrag.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/rusty1.jpg
It`s `twinned` with a rusty old oil drum at the tip - but the owner hasn`t realized it yet.
(waxing, polishing and washing the upper body does nothing to extend vehicle life)
GB is right
Edited by oilrag on 16/08/2009 at 14:22
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Tried to upload a few piccies of the underside of the now pro rustproofed Hilux, hope it works....the link and the rustproofing..;)
tinyurl.com/lecl8n
tinyurl.com/lutu2j
tinyurl.com/m7thk4
tinyurl.com/np2dy3
tinyurl.com/krcy25
Pic 3 should be almost the same chassis part as Oily's pic above.
Pic 5 was the nsf suspension and brake caliper after 2 winters i think, possibly 1 and a half.
I rubbed down and painted the offending parts including the calipers earlier this year, remember this vehicle gets hosed off regularly during the winter, so goodness knows what a neglected example looks like.
The truck is 2 years old in 2 weeks.
Edited by gordonbennet on 16/08/2009 at 15:24
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One more showing a now treated osf suspension...rustproofing carried out about 1 month ago by the way
tinyurl.com/nvc2xv
Edited by gordonbennet on 16/08/2009 at 15:30
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gb,
The rust proofed finish reminds me of the new Mini subframes we used to fit regularly or a reconditioned radiator.
Edited by ifithelps on 16/08/2009 at 16:20
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It's just four years old
And no doubt good for another 6 at least. I would bet good money that the reason the car is eventually scrapped will be mechanical or electrical failure, the cost of repair which exceeds the car's value and not structural corrosion.
Not worth worrying about and certainly not worth spending money on expensive rust proofing treatements.
It is worth taking care of the bodywork because this is largely what decides the car's resale value.
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I enjoyed those photos GB - a good professional job well worth the money.
Meanwhile in windy West Yorkshire.
www.oilrag.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/rusty2.jpg
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GB, Don`t you actually deliver some new cars with rust already eating into the nether regions?
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"And no doubt good for another 6 at least."
Cgn, These are irreplaceable diesels though without DPF`s. The last fully functional (short trips without problems diesels. As such they are likely to be worth fitting expensive parts even as old vehicles.
Particularly in a motor like GB`s with a relatively high price. you would have to be nuts (IMHO;-) to play tiddly winks while a vehicle of that caliber rusts away its chassis.
Even my £7,400 van..... cough.................
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Cgn, These are irreplaceable diesels though without DPF`s. The last fully functional (short trips without problems diesels. As such they are likely to be worth fitting expensive parts even as old vehicles.
I'd like to think so as I own one but realistically the value of a a 12 year old Octavia II is likely to be about the same as a 12 year old Octavia I i.e about £500. A requirement for a new clutch or even a cambelt will see them on the way to the scrapyard however good the "rustproofing".
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Meanwhile in windy West Yorkshire.
Runners or cabbage?..;)
Strange how some folk will never see the wood for the trees, the 55 plate 4x4 in your pic won't make another 6 years because of sheer neglect, though it will shine quite nicely as it descends into the crusher.
However the heavily greased Punto with it's now superclean breathing will be trundling around for donkeys years, apart from getting a bit mucky i know which vehicle i'd rather try to replace the shockers on, the rust bucket 4x4's bolts will in all likelihood snap off, that'll be fun for some poor blighter.
Your brake pipes will last the life of the car, and the flexi's will come undone without seizing onto the pipe should you need to change them too, but you already know that and have taken a bit of effort to thwart the tin worm.
Incidentally most older pick ups are destroyed by the tin worm, and the pick up body cross members in your pic will rust through in the next year, if you zoom in you can see the state of them already. A ton bag of sand in the back will most likely end up on the road.
Carry on Oily, your in good company..;)
Edit...yes i do see rusty suspension parts and exhausts often...and stains from more concerning parts on one or two the make of which slips my poor mind..;)
Oh yes Oily..no DPF and no DMF...
Edited by gordonbennet on 16/08/2009 at 16:03
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It was touched upon above - check the oik regularly in the first few months - the PD engine on the Skoda used a fair amount of oil in the fist couple of thousand miles and then settled to none. Make sure you use VAG recommended oil.
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The PD engine on the Skoda used a fair amount of oil in the first couple of thousand miles and then settled to none.
Mine followed the same pattern - Initially a little alarmed by how much oil used in the first 6,000 mile but at 20,000 oil use minimal. Engine definitely becomes more economical post 10,000 miles.
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It`s the 1.9D, now without the EGR, GB. Did you see the thread in tech?
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. Did you see the thread in tech?
I did Oily, but i've never got too involved with the breathing apparatus, thats however likely to change as the pick up is bound to have some form of EGR.
Maybe the Millers has kept them clean over the years, and i'll carry on with the 'snake oil' till i find different..;)
The BMW 320d in our family went into a recommended indy specialist few weeks ago to have the inlet manifold flaps removed, they also cleaned out the EGR and replaced the lower engine breather during this job for a very reasonable cost.
The engine in question is known to ingest the flaps and or their securing screws with catastrophic results.
The feedback i'm getting is that the car is just as driveable without them at all revs, so quite why they fit stuff like this is beyond me, but then much is these days.
Ifithelps,
yes it does look like chassis paint now it's dried out but it's pro waxoyl underbody paint, thickly applied and doesn't dry hard.
My chassis was in very good condition before, any signs of rust appearing were treated as and when.
I would have had the car treated when new but we wanted to be sure it was a for life vehicle before the investment..as it is swmbo loves it to bits so it's here for good, should be interesting experiment whether in careful maintenance (over), rustproofing, millers, allowing to cool down/warm up etc really do lead to a long trouble free life.
The rustproofers would like to top up the treatment every 3 or so years and that will happen.
As an aside the chap that treated the vehicle said ours was only the second vehicle he'd never had to steam clean underneath before treating (aprt from brand new), that would be apparent from these threads too.
Edited by gordonbennet on 16/08/2009 at 17:01
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"but realistically the value of a a 12 year old Octavia II is likely to"
What does market value matter though at 12 yrs Cg? Some cars will be rust buckets underneath needing new subframes and worse. Others will be like new from rustproofing and will likely have a greatly enhanced life *if the owner wishes it.*
Without his efforts - agreed he likely has a pile of junk - hence £500 book value - as that`s typical care. Or rather lack of it, that turns a car into a pile of junk in 12 years
I think that applies to extended service intervals too. I`ve been reading very interesting results (survey) over on Freds TDI forum on PD engines regarding oil and cam wear.
Wheres the evidence? (anticipating ifithelps) You can`t find it because few people take cars into the extended life zone made possible by extra care.
I would say the classic car scene gives `some` examples. If book values determined car lifespan there would be mostly an empty void pre 1997.
Edited by oilrag on 16/08/2009 at 17:36
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I'm afraid that whatever you do to a car its value will be largely determined by its age and mileage. Looked upon as an economic investment, time and money spent on rustproofing is likely to be money down the drain. Few people take cars into the "extended life zone" you mention simply for that reason i.e its not economically worthwhile. I do appreciate that you like messing about with the underside of cars and thats great if you enjoy it but I don't think it makes any economic sense.
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Here is a link to the thread on Freds TDI forum, where i was reading this morning on oil choice and PD engine longevity - or more specifically the cams and followers.
Must be `peak time` very slow loading just now.
tinyurl.com/mnf4ob
Edit
forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=237678
Edited by oilrag on 16/08/2009 at 18:41
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Here is a link to the thread on Freds TDI forum where i was reading this morning on oil choice and PD engine longevity -
That makes interesting reading Oily, the results are predictable and confirm our thoughts.
Some of the cam failed engine's oil change intervals are frankly laughable, and false economy.
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Hi Bud, previously had a 1.8d Mondy good car but not greatly economical (38 mpg whether caned or not) got from local dealer in Hamilton, SKoda doing 3.5k scrappage on all the pd's as they are pushing the new CR engine. Thanks to everyone else for posting I will probably run along the brake lines with waterproof grease, after seeing the Punto greased up might do the rest when I'm there. Would probably have went for a petrol owing the new diesel durability, but the big scrappage was on the PD's. It gives me a grand up plus better economy till something happens.
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K9, That`s my Punto and it`s Castrol CL waterproof grease (Halfords)
GB, Agree about about the oil. Some seemed to be saying it was more evident with 5w30 instead of 5w40 and that a different oil at every change could be a factor..wonder if that`s a sign of being lax with the actual spec?
Those specs required for PD and then further spec changes to protect the new DPF`s..
It seems a nightmare to me.
Edited by oilrag on 16/08/2009 at 22:05
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i always find it amazing that those in the motortrade always look after their vehicles undersides
and those that probably chew on pens all day would prefer to pay high labour rates to have seized components removed at their expense when mot time comes
well done gb by the way and nice pictures
k9dan well done for considering a long term plan
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Funnily enough the missus runs a Panda and about a month ago I greased the brake lines with waterproof grease. Didn't take long so Will probably grease the Octavia. The old Galaxy is basically a VAG with a Ford engine it's full of vag part numbers on the bits. As an amateur mechanic what usually beats me is seized up bits, then having to hand it over to the professionals to deal with. If a can of grease stops that then I'm happy to slap it on once a year. Don't think the galaxy is galvanised, and it has stood up to damp, salt ridden scottish roads astonishingly well, there is no corrosion underneath on the bodyshell. The Octavia is galvanised and built to VAG standard so should rust less? That only leaves suspension etc underneath so it will get a coat of greasy goo. The Galaxy was done with Supagard, from new so again will do that, as it's inexpensive from a well known auction site.
Use all sorts of potions and lotions on paintwork, don't mind the elbow work. The old motor still looks great, I get a kick from an old motor looking newer than it is.
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My experience of 17 years of ownership of a Peugoet 106 is that the bits you cannot rust proof without drilling (eg box sections) are the only ones to rot.
SO unless the job is done professionally in the box sections it's a waste of time and money..
And greasing the underneath may give a warm glow but a waste of time...
Our Peugeot is near immaculate but worth buttons so if it breaks, scrapyard job...
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"And greasing the underneath may give a warm glow but a waste of time..."
A couple of hours with a brush and a few pots of grease - every four or five years.
Bet you spend more time than that breathing on and buffing up the badge on the Toyota , MF.
(Written with warmth and humour ;-) ;-)
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