I"ve had this problem on and off for about 9 months,the reason i say on and off is that i learned what was causing it and managed to fix it since then it happened a few times since but it only took 10 mins to fix. I would like to point out that when my glow plug light came on and the cut out,when i got it started again i never had the problem of the engine management light staying on,so if this is happening to you then maybe you have a different problem. Mines turned out to be the CRANKSHAFT SENSOR, the dust {powder} and very fine metal shavings from the dual mass flywheel were clogging up the sensor,stopping it working properly. This sensor is magnetic so it attracts the shavings etc. Anyway to cut a very long story short, once i learned where the sensor was i took it out cleaned it with methalated spirits,put it back in and that was it for weeks back to normal, when it happend again i just did the same again.When this stpped working i replaced the sensor for £28 from ford and it felt like a new car, power back etc. I should tell you that i use my car as a taxi so i NEED it to be working.I have since fixed about 6 mondeo taxis with the same problem and replacing the sensor has worked in them all so far.I should point out that even if you replace the sensor you may still get the problem back because of a build up of this powder in the bellhousing where the sensor sits.I replaced my clutch last week at 133k and the amount of powder that came out was amazing it was even in my gearbox oil.So now theres no powder in my gearbox to clogg up the sensor its brand new. Anyway i would STRONGLY reccomend trying this first,its probably youre cheapest option and its worked for me on more than one occasion.If you want to know where it is. it fits in to the back of the bellhousing, if you follow the EGR pipe don to the bottom and put youre hand just past it you should feel hydraulic{brake}pipes and if you feel around there you should feel the top of a sensor with a wire comming out of it, this is it.You"ll need a n 8mm ring spanner{preferably rathet spanner} makes it much easier,just unloosen the boly you can feel beside the sensor and slide it out. Repacing it is just opposie from takin it out... Hope this heps some of you and stps you getting ripped off... Let me know if it works for any of you... cheersl
Shouting in header significantly lowered!
Edited by Webmaster on 09/04/2009 at 22:36
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Good for you, but what a crap way to make a car!, one that powders its flywheel as it drives along.
My first car had cork bungs in the clutch, which you could replace for a few shillings.
I am not impressed by DMFs- or their cost to the punter
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It's just another example of bean counter engineering. The engine speed probe should always be at the flywheel end of the crank to avoid torsional oscillations modulating the speed signal with FM. The bell housing is no place for a variable reluctance probe with a permanent magnet.
At least VAG put the transducer and tone wheel inside the engine at the flywheel end. If you get metal filings in there, you have a lot more to worry about.
659.
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