Hi
Corsa needs some new clips on the CV joint as part of the MoT.
The Haynes manual recommends special pliers to secure the ends, which look like top cutting pliers just with blunt ends.
Having a look in Halfords tonight, I see only hose clip pliers which look very similar, but my question is are these the same thing?
Edited by Webmaster on 03/01/2009 at 03:12
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www.tools-n-all.co.uk/items/item.aspx?itemid=15043...8
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Effectively ordinary pincers with the sharp edges removed.
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Hi,
My son's Corsa also required new CV boot clips for MOT. I bought Jubilee type clips ( by German manufacturer, seemed a lighter gauge than Jubilee, may have been stainless steel ) from a Vauxhall dealer, £3 approx. No need for special pliers, and no effect on wheel balance.
Regards,
Mo
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I have used tie wraps (quality ones) pulled very tight. In fact some CV joints now come with them. Had one on a Honda Civic for 24k, and still on there!
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If the CV boots are made of the stiffer plastic material rather than the more flexible rubber material then tie wraps (cable ties) won't last very long before falling off. Speaking from both experience and from what the Vauxhall garage told me afterwards.
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the reason for the special pliers is that the cv boot clips are made of stainless steal and standard boot clip pliers will not be strong enough, they are very strong clips and they are hard to crush with the correct tool, dont bother wasteing time with cable tie's they cant crush the hard plastic boot tight enough to keep in place, just had a look at the link those are the same pliers that i have and if you look closely you can see 1/2 drive square holes so that you can put exstension bars to try and get the clip tight enough specifically for the vauxhall, the original clips on the corsas were made of alluminium hence they break, the new clips are a retro fit to over come this common problem, regards TB
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Thanks for your quick responses guys.
I will buy a pair of the Lisle pliers, they certainly look like they'll be up to the job!
I'm not sure whether the boots are plastic. They certainly feel very hard, but are quite thick - I was expecting plastic to be a bit thinner??
I should have mentioned I've already got a pair of clips on order to get the boots through the MoT. One was apparently secured last year (not very well) and the grease now looks a bit worse for wear, so I've ordered a couple of boot kits as well to strip down the joints, which I'll fit in due course when I've a weekend free.
Whilst I'm here any tips for removing the driveshafts? Haynes just reads like a straight forward recipe so I'm very sceptical! Also is it still a good idea to jack up the other side when working on front suspension?
Edited by mfarrow on 03/01/2009 at 17:46
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>>Whilst I'm here any tips for removing the driveshafts?
The last two cars I've done CVs on, I've managed to get away ithout removing the drive shafts.
A '97 Micra - undid the hub carrier to strut bolts, removed brake caliper and turned steering to maximum, which is just enough to release the drive shaft. Peeled back gaiter and gave CV sharp tap with hard rubber mallet - it came free. It can help if you hold the drive shaft with something like mole grips and use your third arm to apply pressure towards the diff to discourage the inner joint separating or the shaft coming out of the diff.
I used a similar method on a KIA Pride.
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i normally take out the bottom two bolts of the strut being carefull to not strain the flexipipe to much, cut the little clip off slide the boot up the shaft then get the shaft out of the joint with a carfully aimed blow from a soft hammer
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i normally take out the bottom two bolts of the strut
Exactly what I did topbloke. Whole hub assemble then pulls forward and shaft came out easily with some circlip pliers.
The pliers work a treat. Many thanks.
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Soft iron wire can be used-one complete loop round the cover and then twist.
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