New here and new to cars, just got a Focus LX, 2001 Y plate. I got conned I think. remote c/l was working when I went to see the car and I paid a deposit. Three days later when I went to pick it up, all of a sudden driver door does not open with remote OR the key. Guy fobbed me off saying it was the battery on the key.
Anyway, here are my symptoms:
All doors locked
- key does not unlock driver door or any other doors.
- remote does not unlock driver door but all passanger doors unlock.
So I crawl in and manually unlock the driver door.
From the inside I can lock/unlock all doors by manually pressing the button on the driver side trim.
All doors unlocked
- when remote is pressed, all passenger doors lock then immediately unlock, but no noise on the driver door.
- Key locks all doors.
Driver door is always dead silent, no catching noise whats so ever at all times that i've been fidling.
When I removed the trim on the driver door, I pulled the power cables off the (actuator?) and all other doors got locked. Then plugged it back in and all other door unlocked.
I've checked fuse no. 63, took it out for 20mins or so, that's intacked..(real pain to get to . Spayed some clean/lube spray in the key whole as well.
If I manually lock the driver door, the remote can lock/unlock all passanger doors but the key does nothing. Only thing the key does is lock all doors while all doors already unlocked.
Please can some one help me pin point the fault and the cheapest method to solve.
Thanks
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 11/11/2008 at 20:54
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Firstly, check the cables between the door and the body to make sure none are trapped or kinked and broken internally.
Then replace the acutator with a known working one.
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Hi, Thanks for the quick reply, cables are bundled together and looks like its wrapped with black tape of something......should cut the tape or is there another way to test the cables?
As for the actuator, is that white'ish box with two rods connected?
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Hi Thanks for the quick reply cables are bundled together and looks like its wrapped
You should be able to separate the wrap from the body and door and pull the boot back. The connection to the body might even be a plug and socket arrangement. Don't cut it.
As for the actuator is that white'ish box with two rods connected?
I believe the central locking motor is incorporated with the latch assembly, 2 rods or cables sounds about right.
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OK, will try it out.
Another thing, normally, should all the door lock/unlock from passenger side using the key? or just that door?
Mine only operates the passenger door using the key.
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Hi
Does anyone have a pin out diagram of the round connect on the driver door hinge?
The wires for the electric window and c/l are connected to the body of the car by a round connector that you have to screw on.
I wanted to test the cables with a meter as I think cutting the wrapping open will create a mess.
Thanks
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If it does not operate on key either,possibly the mechanical linkage has failed.
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Hi jc2,
How can I verify this, the two metal bars (1 connected handle outside, other to key), they dont look bent (forcefully).
Thanks.
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thanks guys, i have fixed this issue. ordered a new c/l unit from scrap yard, fitted it myself after a bit difficulty....but it was worth it. garage wanted £55 and he was not too happy that i got the part from the internet.
anyway, thanks to all for your help.
next task is engine oil change....
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I've just noticed a slight problem. The passanger door (behind the driver) does not lock by remote, with the other doors. I have to press the lock button 2nd time for that door to lock.
Hoping something easy to fix......please let me know what the fix is.
Thanks
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Make sure you've fitted the correct and identical unit to the driver's door (there are several types available depending on type of system/deadlocks etc.).
Unplug the driver's door and see if the passenger side now works correctly. If so, let me know the part number on the removed latch unit (should start XS41-S21812-) and I'll tell you what units are compatible.
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Hi mfarrow,
With the faulty lock, all other doors operate by remote.
It appears that both parts have the same number xs41-a21812-de. One I got from the yard has a date ??.09.00, the old one has a date 24.01.01
Apart from the date, the current one has metal/platic cover for the rods where as the faulty one was bare rod.
I think with single press, it just locks the driver door now. With 2 press, it locks all doors. All doors unlock with single press.
Is there a way resync the central locking?
Thanks
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Sorry yes you're right I meant -A21...
Well that's good, but the first press should lock all doors, and the second one do the deadlocks.
I don't know any way of re-syncing. Try disconnecting the battery for an hour and see if that does anything (make sure you have the radio code if you need it).
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This is playing silly pink fluffy dice with me, it appears that 2 doors open at a time diagonally. So I did the reprograming thingy.....wow that worked.....for a bit. Tried few hours later, got in the car, pressed the lock button on the door.....ony 2 doors locked.......
Anyway, I am gonna change the battery on the key fob as a last resort.
Also, how important in the foam covering (stuck on the door) behind the trim, its all ripped apart. Is it worth getting a replacement? something like this cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1802...2
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 04/12/2008 at 01:10
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The blooming central locking is still playing up. Every time I re-program the key it works perfectly, you can hear the 'zap' sound on all 4 doors, sharp with single remote press. As soon use I manually lock the doors from the inside (button on driver door) it screws up again.
When I press the lock button on the driver door, only two doors lock, then I press it again, 3 doors lock......it varies which doors lock but there's always one door that does not lock. However if I lock 4th door manually and press driver door button, it unlocks all doors fine.
After the above, now with single remote press only the driver door locks. To lock the other doors I have to press twice to activate the deadlock and the 'zap' sound the from the doors are sluggish and slow motion, but does lock.
Then for the last week or so, the remote does not want to work properly, I'd have to press the buttons several times and point very close to the door/boot. So I thought it might be the battery, but same thing happens with a new battery. I dont know if this is due to the cold weather or the whole thing is just going to pack in soon.
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Is the car battery functioning ok and is it a calcium battery ? If it's a lead acid battery it's the wrong one for the car and can result in strange things happening, it needs to be a calcium battery.
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<< is the car battery functioning ok >>
I think so, the car starts without any hesitation.
<< is it a calcium battery ? >>
I've no idea, I take the cover off and have a look.
Edited by roks on 29/12/2008 at 10:44
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I had a number of issues with the central locking on my 1999 Mk1 Focus over the years, most of which I never managed to resolve properly before I traded the car in (the remote not working and the car deadlocking whilst driving being just two !)
Below is a useful little guide to the central locking test function, which might give you extra clues to enable you to solve your problem. I copied and pasted it from here I think, so full credit goes to the original poster.
It's a good way of testing whether the receiver module is receiving signals from your remote and will also show up any problems with the door sensors, amongst other things.
NB. I've followed the procedure myself to test for the things I just mentioned and it seemed to work fine, but I can't comment on what effect rebooting the central locking module will have on your remote if it's currently working, as mine wasn't working before the test anyway.
Central Locking Test Function
1. Open any door, keys out of ignition.
2. Press the switch in the door frame part of the lock (the one that controls the interior light etc.) 6 times within 4 seconds.
The result is a car that (until left alone for a minute) will flash both indicator lights each time any door or the boot is opened.
Driving with it will permanently switch on the indicators if you go above 10kmh (6mph) until you slow down again.
It should also flash if you press any key on the remote.
If this doesnt happen with all doors, it could be a faulty switch or loom.
If it doesnt happen with the remote, it could be a faulty remote.
This function also reboots the central locking module, so it could cure associated problems too.
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