Ihave a 307 2.0 HDI 110 BHP, with the DW10ATED engine. Coming home last night on the motorway, the car lost power then cut out. Opened the bonnet, and the top hose coming off the intercooler to the inlet manifold intake was collapsing/being sucked in and restricting the airflow, thus stopping the engine. (like a vacuum)Removed the pipe from the intercooler which allowed me to get off the motorway. On the way off the motorway, a diesel filter blocked message came up. At the services, opened the drain on the diesel filter (because of the message) and refilled, reconnected top intercooler hose and seemed ok. Set off again, then 2 mins later, an almighty bang. Checked under bonnet and found the bottom hose of the intercooler has exploded, popped like a balloon..
any ideas anyone?
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 04/09/2008 at 01:52
|
I've seen this before. The bottom hose delaminates and the split inner wall inflates and blocks the airflow, causing the engine to suck the top hose flat.
Then the turbo overboosts because, despite it's best efforts, the manifold is under it's target pressure and that bursts the hose.
The "diesel filter blocked" message refers to the FAP [DPF] in the exhaust; it's flagged by a differential pressure sensor piped across the FAP - which may have become a little perplexed.
|
Screwloose
Kind of suspected it was a blockage of some kind...thought it would have been the intercooler! I was worried it might have been the FAP collapsing and blocking the exhaust or smething as the diesel additive light has been on for about 2 years and it had finally give up the ghost!
Will get the hose from peugeot presumably, unless you know a good supplier.
Will let you know.
Thanks!!
|
as the diesel additive light has been on for about 2 years
Ignoring that is going to be costly. The FAP will need replacing as it will be solid with burned-in residue. Maybe the pressure sensor wasn't telling lies.
The hose is a dealer-only part AFAIK. I have little time for "pattern parts" - although they do bring me a lot of work.
|
|
Yes, it is costly. But at £30 a litre, 3 litres which i need, plus labour plus plugging it in to the computer to reset the ecu is about £300...plus i just put a dual mass flwheel/clutch kit in at christmas so i have no money! But you're absolutely right.
|
Hi
The diesel additive light has come on saying it is low. If i was to put the stuff in my self, (i know where it goes, the kit etc) would it then continue to dose the fuel, or is it that it once the warning has come on? Would it still need to go to the dealer to make it start dosing again? I know the warning won't go off until the dealer has done this but...
|
[This needs adding to the existing thread]
There is no DIY way out of your problem. There is no level sensor, it measures the amount used.
See previous answer.
|
Thanks mate
That doesn't really answer my question...
I'm taking it to the dealers to get it sorted, but i want to know if in the meantime, if i fill it with eolys, will it continue doing/dosing it? I'm trying to save some money by doing some of the work myself..the FAP and the plugging in of the computer to sort it is for the dealer. I now it won't resolve the problem, i just need to know that.
|
If it's been empty for two years; then the whole tank and pump may well have dried out and need replacing. It will have stopped dosing a long time ago and it won't know that you've added anything until it's quantity is re-set.
Given the nightmare that even routine servicing of an Eolys system often entails; this one is going to be "challenging." Physically replacing the fluid is only a tiny part of it.
If the car will still drive; don't touch it until you've got at least £1000 available.
|
|
Thanks Screwloose. At least i know not to waste my time with it.
|
Hi
I presume the FAP is the unit bolted to the front of the cat? This guy is selling this on ebay as a FAP, but am i correct in thinking it is the cat?
cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item...5
moved to your other question as related
Edited by Webmaster on 31/08/2008 at 02:40
|
|
A "particular" filter - well I suppose it is a particular filter really !
|
Looks all wrong to me; maybe a 1.6 HDi one. Doesn't look "remanufactured" - just plain old.
|
|
Yeah, thats what i thought. When i told the guy who was selling it, he wasn't pleasant and told me i didn't know what i was talking about. But my FAP is in front of the Cat isn't it? A short one bolted to the cat?
|
|
Perhaps we should all email him and tell him its wrong!!! lol
|
Kungfu, I used to have a 2.2Hdi C5 & had fun with the FAP system on that.
The CAT/FAP comes apart in the middle, bolted together with 3 bolts separated with a copper gasket.
So if the item on Ebay is the rear half of the CAT/FAP it is the FAP section, the CAT section is smaller & at the engine end of the unit.
When he says re-manufactured he probably means it has been jet cleaned with water which is what is required to clean out the residue of multiple regenerations & needs maintenance every 50k miles, later models were 80k miles.
From my experience, the Eolys pump keeps trying to pump even when the low fluid alarm comes up. But as your one may have been pumping dry, it could be goosed.
Mine was still pumping 1 year after first alarming, I just filled up the Eolys tank.
So a second-hand FAP & couple of litres of Eolys might keep you going at low cost if the pump is still functioning. Or you could just add a dose of Eolys to the fuel tank every time you filled up.
HTH.
|
OOOkkkk... i can see this is a bit of a minefield. I thought i read somewhere on here that the FAP was the smaller one of the 2 units. Hmm.
As for adding a 'dose' of eolys, that sounds like a tempory fix, but exactly how much is a 'dose'?
Arrgh, why don't the dealers tell you all this when you buy one of their cars?
|
Arrgh, why don't the dealers tell you all this when you buy one of their cars?
What, and put you off buying one. LOL.
It would certainly have stopped me trading in my ecomomical XM 2.5 TD for a C5 2.2 Hdi which turned out to be about 20% less economical on fuel alone, let alone all the FAP requirements.
I'm sure that the CAT would be engine side of the FAP.
The heat from the CAT would help to warm up the FAP & make regeneration easier to achive.
1 litre of Eolys is enough for 10k miles so assuming 50mpg thats 200g/1000ml = 5ml of Eolys per gallon of diesel if my math is correct.
Was just a thought to keep you going & avoid the FAP clogging up while you find out if the pump is still working.
|
|
The pump which squirts in the eolys is located where? I know where the additive reservoir is. I know i will find it but suppose it is easier to ask the experts on here. By the way, i worked for citroen for years before i gave it up for a new career, so i know my way about these cars, just not as much as you guys!
|
It's built into the top of the additive tank.
|
|
Hi
I've been told (correctly or incorrectly) that there are several types of Eolys for my car dependent on chassis number. Is this correct? The car is a 110 BHP RHS engine. Also, is it correct that it needs 3 litres of it?
Thanks in advance.
{moves once more to your original question as it relates to that!}
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 01/09/2008 at 11:07
|
The ever helpful Screwloose will be along in a minute to tell you about EOLYS types and grades. My 307 claims to need 5 litres for a total refill and it is about £25 a litre.
|
|
|
There are indeed different types of Eolys; [the French can never make their minds up about anything...] and it may take 3 litres. [Or 5; every one is a new adventure...]
|
|
|
|
|
|
Hi
Is the fuel cap sensor easy to change. I ask this in case the 'diesel additive minimum level' message can't be turned off and after reading on here how hard it can be to reset etc. I understand there are many different ones dependent on chassis number too?
Edited by Pugugly on 03/09/2008 at 20:09
|
As a fellow 307 owner (is there no end to the pain?) I venture to ask why you think you need to change the fuel cap sensor? Surely the additive low warning can be turned off by refilling the EOLYS tank? What are you trying to achieve here? I have just had a look at my filler cap and it is clear that the whole centre section is on a bayonet type fitting with a very ovious little lock tab which can be pressed in with the tip of a small screw driver. I got mine unlocked but took it no further as I didn't want to get a face full of springs magnets and other small parts! In short, you can certainly take the cap apart to locate the sensor.
|
|
I don't want to change the sensor....i'm enquiring just in case, because sometimes they do go faulty (missing magnets etc) and so do not allow you to reset the warning message. The tank has been refilled and is going there today to get the messages turned off, but just trying to be prepared!
|
I understand! Taking the fuel cap to pieces is easy but I don't know what you will find there and/or how much it will cost!
|
Right. Took my car to get the counters reset for the diesel additive. All the fault codes were cleared, if any, counters rest etc. Still comes up saying'diesel additive minimum level'. Have checked the fuel cap, both magnets are there, how do i check the sensor in the fuel neck? Is there any readings or tests i can do on the sensor?
The tool used for the codes is a snap on solus. At one point in the data section it was actually saying there was no fuel cap fitted, but it was. Does this mean the sensor was faulty? Or the cap? Does a new cap come with magnets? Any help would be appreciated.
|
|
