my coolant level has been running low very quickly recently and over the past couple of days it has gone from full to empty within minutes. is there anything else other than the radiator that is causing this. im planning on getting the radiator changed because of this problem. and at the same time was going to get a new cam belt as its been about 4 years and 70000 miles since this was changed. does the cam belt need changing this regularly or could i leave it for longer. could anyone estimate the cost of this kind of job.
cheers
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Is there a puddle anywhere?? 306 radiators are fragile to say the least. Waterpumps can leak. Replacement of the pump will require access to the cambelt area and the cambelt removing so it might as well be changed. At 70K the belt needs changing. Cant comment on costs. Parts less than £200 ish. Labour depends on if you can do it yourself or you have to pay a garage.
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cheers mate. ye there is a puddle at the front of the car and from what i can see the water is leaking out of what i think is the radiator. i dont know anything about cars so i wont be doing the work myself.
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G'day. I just bought a used 306 and am doing engine swap. The radiators are crap with plastic everywhere and as I a not used to plastic technology so far I have cracked the plastic washing machine type plug on the firewall and broken off the bleeder pipe nozzle on rhs radiator tank.
I read it may not work to try to glue them back on as the plastic tanks get brittle with age.
I have not had one reply to a Peugeot radiator exchange in Aust so far which is a bit of a worry.
if you have a leak fix it as an engine cooked is not cheap.
Your leaks can come from multitude of connecting points.
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306 radiators normally rot out on the bottom edge on the bumper side and then leak down onto the bottom of the bumper so you don't notice. other places for 306 water leaks are, the waterpump and the heater matrix, but as you have a leak at the front of the car it would suggest the radiator.
as for a replacement try and get a nissen aluminium rad, there about £100 and last longer than the oem ones. and yes your cambelt is coming up to being due so id get it done at the same time, for cambelt kit, waterpump and rad id say your looking at a £400 bill at a decent independant.
Stevegee, in the past depending on where the break is ive repaired peugeot rads with pvc pipe weld, it's a glue that actually melts the plastic together, not sure if you can get it in australia id imagine you can but wouldn't know the name, if not have you checked to see if anyone on ebay.co.uk would be willing to ship a new rad to australia?
chris
Edited by thomp1983 on 19/04/2008 at 19:24
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Thanks Chris.
I have the engine out and have problems there but can see I have to get the bottom radiator hose off.
What is the procedure to do this?
I have drained the water washer bottle and removed the only bolt I can see.
I am standing in the engine bay so once I get the bottle out should be able to remove radiator and all the plumbing on the drivers side of the car.
I am being very cautious not to damage it further.
The hole is about as big as 20 cent piece and the break is clean and I have the end that came off the water bypass pipe so will give it a try once i get the radiator out which i see is Brass with plastic tank. It worse will get my local radiator guy to make me a new brass top tank.
But as you say $205 delivered is pretty good.
So the top side tank is PVC?
OK will go to a good plumbers.
I think we have some chemi weld stuff that dries gray.
I see Peugeot has repaired the alloy heat exchanger with this so will try Monday to fix it.
I also have to fix a cracked rear heater connector when I pulled too hard..
I am new chum to Peugeot having had Toyota so half my spanners dont fit.
But I am really looking forward to haiving this D8A engine on the road as the distances are long here and diesel is nudging $1.80 per litre.
Edited by stevegee on 20/04/2008 at 03:55
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Check its not the radiator bottom hose leaking first, my ZX (same engine - not sure if same rad) started losing water on to the floor for no apparent reason and after taking the rad out for inspection discovered the leak was from the connector which IMO isn't of very good design.. a bit of jiggling and tightening up and it's sorted.
Edited by pendulum on 19/04/2008 at 19:26
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yeah the stupid bottom connector can leak so is worth checking.
stevegee you could have a new rad delivered to australia for roughly 215 aus dollars.
chris
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the bottom hose is a bit difficult to describe (we do mean the one directly below the expansion tank?), but basically there is a plastic collar on it that turns (may need a light tap with a hammer as they do stick) once the collar is turned it releases the pressure on the two clips it covers, just carefully lift these clips clear of the rad and job done. if you've got the engine removed though then the other end of this hose should be free as it connects to a t junction behind the waterpump, so you can just pull the rad out carefully and with some twisting the whole hose will come out with it.
chris
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Hi Russellbeer,
Have owned D-turbo S [Black - 3 door] from new - great cars! - had the rad replaced about 4000 miles ago [mileage 125,000] - cost £230. Driving along one day, low level coolant warning light appeared, and on inspection return rad pipe located half way down extreme LHS of rad had come off. To cut a long story short [loads of info on HJ's technical matters - about a month ago] securing this pipe is the achilles heel of the rad -amongst other heels! and as said in previous 'notes' best check if it hasn't just worked loose! - Cheers.
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Got the hose off with care and not broken.
Fixed radiator with an Amine hardner Epoxy resin from 3M.
Called Metal mend
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Chris: Engine is in and running, the only issue I encountered was the lower radiator hose and the o-ring.
I tried new hose and found the o-ring would not go into the receptacle so I used rigid line o- rings from 1 and 5/8th Spinner flanges (A radio frequency cable) or you could use ANDREWS.
Brilliant neopreme o-rings with flexibility and they fitted.
Solved that rotten rear heater hose problem as well.
If they snap off, remove completely and clean out the heater connect points then use Hardie 5/8 inch boom spray adaptors which allow you to connect to a 5/8th Gates heater hose using hose clips.
The O-ring on the boomspray connector fits perfectly into the heater outlet
and the old hose assembly
at a cost of $9.00 for the clips and $5 for the hose.
Better than the rip off $200 for the hose pair.
Edited by stevegee on 03/06/2008 at 11:09
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