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Problem started with engine dying just when about to change up a gear, say 1st. to 2nd. and 2 -3rd. Now it dies when driving along, and can be revived by dipping the clutch and /or changing down a gear. Also when stationery reving up to about 2500 revs, and holding the accel pedal constant, engine revs & dies cyclically. Engine ign warning light does not go out at any stage. Been to three garages inc. Ford Main dealers ( no catcalls please) and changed all components of the (Weber) fuel injection unit for previously used ones, with new gasket set. Any suggestions before I scrap the item ?
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The ECU can't see the throttle position sensor. Check the in-line plugs for corrosion and look at the live-data to confirm.
Also check for air leaks into the manifolds and the charging system.
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Thanks for those suggestions Screwloose, and I'll check them out on my return home. Unfortunately, time overtook me and I had to abandon the car to come up North to look after Mother- literally !, so it will be the back end of March before I can try them out. The plugs should be OK , since they were only put in Aug time last year, for the MOT, and I always use coppaslip, but anything can happen and probably will ! I will post an update when I have more to report. THanks again for the suggestions. Ian. ( an exgrower)
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Clean out the MAF sensor. Is this the Endura unit or the old HCS one? The old HCS seem to have a lot of problems with the throttle position sensor going faulty. I found on my old one when it did this one of the wires going to it was split so I simple replaced that wire by cutting and splicing, not the best method but it worked.
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Hello Rattle, and many thanks for your reply to my query. Yes , it's the old HCS engine and I have been able to change every item on the CFi , including the TPS, having been given one, along with a throttle position stepper motor, and one on a CFi unit I bought on eBay. When I replaced the exisiting TPS , I did'nt adjust its position to give the original resistance reading; perhaps I should have, although I seem to recall from somewhere that the ECU 'learns' the position by a trial & error system and accurate setting up is therefore not necessary.This might be a load of garbage, so when I next attempt to sort out the pink fluffy dice I will try to adjust the position as closely as it was originally. I had to give up the effort the day I posted my lament on this site, and will be absent until the back end of March, but when I return your suggestions will be carefully fowllowed up and I will report back on the results.Thanks again - from xgrower.
Edited by Webmaster on 29/02/2008 at 09:40
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xgrower
If the ECU can't see where the TPS is; replacing or adjusting it will have no effect. It's the cabling and connexions between the two that need testing.
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I did a wiggle test to confirm it, as the ECU tester then indicated it could see the TPS, proving it was a damaged cable.
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Thanks to both Screwloose and Rattle for the observations, and they do sound familiar, having carefully read the Haynes manuals. The connection plugs seemed to be OK, no obvious corrosion, but I'll give them a very careful inspection following your comments. I've come across an OBD plug and interface unit to connect to a computer for diagnostic purposes from "Talktomycar.co.uk" for 55 GBP ( no pound sign on this computer !) It's supposed to have much more in the way of diagnostic uses. Have either of you come across it at all before I break open the piggy bank? It's rather frustrating having all this advise now , when I am unable to even kick the tyres,compared to January/very earlyFeb when I was working on the *pink fluffy dice* All things in their time.Thanks again gents, and will report back when I get back. xgrower.
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xgrower
Save your money; it will not "talk-to-your-car" as it isn't - and never will be, OBD-II compatible. Usual e-bay US-market-only tool scam.
Search e-bay "garage tools and equipment" for an obselete Sykes ACR-2 [or 4] with an old Ford pod. That will give you codes and basic live data. Old hat for the garage trade; ideal for DIY.
Edited by Screwloose on 29/02/2008 at 21:38
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Hi Screwloose, yes, there's a three-pin plug, just by the off-side lamphousing, for a flash code reader, but in addition, there is a (16-pin) D socket in the passenger footwell, where they usually put the fuel inertia switch. I thought this might be better to use than a flash reader, with the possibilities of confusing the flash codes, and with the prospect of future use when this car "passes on". Both Draper and Gunson marketed readers - would these be as useful as the Sykes ? It would open up the potential supply having three possible models rather than just one.
xgrower
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The engine is on the 3-pin plug; not flash codes, EEC-IV slo-code. The J1962 socket [they all have one] may have ABS etc. - or nothing on it at all.
Reading mid-nineties Fords is a bit of a nightmare for even the top scanners - hence my suggestion of the Sykes ACR - that was £1200 back then and one of the few that could.
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Ok , Screwloose, Sykes it is. Thanks again for the guidance through the minefield.
xgrower.
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Even the OBD ones can be tricky due to protocol differences. Apparently this affects Fords built from 1996 to 1998.
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Gee, thanks Rattle,maybe I'll just go and forget I ever had a Fiesta........only joking, I think. Perhaps things will look better when I get back and start trying to find the fault. There again , maybe they won't ! Still, thanks again for the input. Could you try very hard to find a nice easy answer next time maybe ??
xgrower.
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