Ford Fiesta (1995 - 1999) - 1998/R 1.25 Zetec - Central Locking  
1998/R 1.25 Zetec - Central Locking - Turtle1966
Thanks to everyone for your previous help, the final thing I now need to fix is the driver side central locking.

Sympton is:

This is key operated central locking, not remote. The drivers door will lock the car fully, but doesn't operate at all when I want to open the door.

I'm thinking the car will have electric motors driving the mechanism, not just a solenoid? Likely that I will need to source a replacement motor for this?

Is there a common fault with these and is there anything I should do before just getting a replacement motor?

From the passenger side, both doors operate successfully on the key turn!

Is there some sort of actuator that would trigger the electric motor/solenoid, which would need changing, as the lock operates from the passenger side?

Any idea how much a part will be from Ford and/or other supplier?

Finally, I may try to install one of these widely advertised "remote" packages that gives you a remote fob to operate the locks. Any advice on these or recommendations?

Thanks!

Edited by Dynamic Dave on 16/01/2008 at 10:38

Tags: technical issues electrical faults ABS repairs water ingress

Ford Fiesta - 1998/R 1.25 Zetec - Central Locking - Saltrampen
Usually a cable or rod connects from lock barrel or lock to a switch which triggers the mechanism. If switch is corroded or waterproof coverings have perished or if rod/cable is not moving sufficiently may cause the failure. Hence why one door may work and another not.
Anyway you will not know until you take the door panel/card off and have a look inside.

I expect any switch or cable or rod will be cheap (less than £40?) and the main cost will be time / labour if a garage does the work (1 - 2 hours??). Some doors can be a pain to work on as well, as the access is tight to get hands in.

If the both doors operate with no problem from passenger side, sounds like the soleniod or motor is OK.

Can also be broken / corroded wiring and lack of movement/worm mechaism in the lock barrel, but as said, you really need to take a look if spraying WD40 into the all the door locks doesn't work.



Ford Fiesta - 1998/R 1.25 Zetec - Central Locking - Screwloose

The most common fault on these is water in the door loom plug in the doorshut - the locking wires are the bottom ones and suffer first.
Ford Fiesta - 1998/R 1.25 Zetec - Central Locking - Turtle1966
The most common fault on these is water in the door loom plug in the
doorshut - the locking wires are the bottom ones and suffer first.


I've heard this, but if the lock operates from the key being used in the passenger door, could it still be this? That is what puzzles me!

The motor/solenoid appears to be ok, if the key is used in the passenger door. The motor/solenoid appears to work when locking the door from the drivers side.

It just doesn't operate when trying to unlock from the drivers door.

The more I think about this (and I haven't yet had time to investigate further), the more I think its to do with the lock mechanism itself being worn?

Hmmm....

Ford Fiesta - 1998/R 1.25 Zetec - Central Locking - bono
Hi everyone

I have a 99 fiesta 1.3 and had same issue with central locks, the driver door (here in Mexico its the left one) was unable to open the locks, even the key turns part of its travel at the moment of turning. Tested opening from passenger side and worked well. Also the trunk started with some difficulties to open.
Just spray WD-40 inside the key barrels and the door opening mechanism, opening the door ans spraying from the lock, use a generous queantity of lubricant and let it rest half an hour, if you can, in a sunny place, and voilá, all doors works perfectly almost a year ago .-)

Afer I did this, the key turned a little bit more into the lock barrel and this is what opens the mechanism.

Hope this helps
Ford Fiesta - 1998/R 1.25 Zetec - Central Locking - Dynamic Dave
Just spray WD-40 inside the key barrels


The trouble with using WD40 is that it will wash the manufacturers grease out of the lock. Once you've got the lock freed up it's best to spray some grease into the lock. Take note of Cyd's suggestion in the following thread:-

www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=8483


Also read this thread:-

www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=19068

Edited by Dynamic Dave on 28/03/2008 at 00:45

Ford Fiesta - 1998/R 1.25 Zetec - Central Locking - bono
Dave, Thanks for the reply, a very good post as reference, maybe here in Mexico because of the weather we do not have this issue regularly, Im pretty sure that the maintainance I did for my car locks was the first one since new.
I will try some of those lubricants in there
Regards
Javier
1998/R 1.25 Zetec - Central Locking - Senshi Keshi

ok ,,

just bough a fiesta from the auctions ,, all was cool except the drivers elec window would not open , nor the lock would let me in ,,,and there was no way i was keep using the passenger door lock .... here is the SECRET quick fix solutions i will share ...

alot of sites gave me bad info..all it costs is 15 mins time ... trust i discovered my own

"locks but wont open"

* door locks fiest 1.25l etc (or above)

* electric window

tools required **** dificulty rating...ummm dead easy

1 x med size phillips screw driver

1 x large head phillips screw driver

1 stanley / or very sharp knife

1 x wd40

1 x kettle of hot water

a squirt of fairy liquid

2 x cigarettes

possibly a new key not worn down to death

& 15 mins

how to fix the door lock ..

stage 1 [ remove door inside cover ]

remove the following , Mirror adjuster cover (pop out a black screw blank), the door opener plate (has a tweeter speaker on it) by popping out the blank and removing the phillips screw ,

more screws now....

next is on the door handle you use to shut car door (remove blank cap again ..

now gently start to pull away at the bottom of the panel , it has Lugs that come out on force , when all is loose lift UPRIGHT as the panel is "hooked on"

unplug the electric window switch cable (has a push in part that releases easily ...dont force) and finaly the Tweeter speaker lead...(these are the only 2 cables you need to unplug

You will see a screen of black sponge type cover , Gently Peel Back , without ripping if possible , not end of the world if rips

Now you need to remove the WINDOW guider screws , these are located on the door

next to the MAIN DOOR mechanism (gold large Fat phillips screws . you need a big phillips head)

when the guiders are loose , the COVER PLATE that surrounds the lock is at this point only held on by Black silicone (hence the stanley knife) carefully now cut the mastic / silicone seal to completely remove and Expose the offending lock......

you will see the white box the lock rods operate from,,,, my problem was all the Spring were there ... all it was was damp and moisture had jammed the rod to Unlock

all was needed here was to use a Can of WD40 with Smart straw wowowow and soak it in wd40 whilst turning the key ,,,after 2- 3 mins it was working like the day it left the ford plant some 10 years ago !! . "worn barrel " keys can give that clicky , sticky feel on lock turn .

as for faulty window switches.....

remove the plug , get a cocktail stick or tooth pick and re close / tighten the connections again ....works every time

another amazing kwik fix ......

this works, if it is the "missing spring " they are pennies to buy or steal from your local sc***pers , pop a new one back on (google ford door lock build up )dont give a Ford dealr ££££'s for a real easy job ...anything can be fixed ,,its a battle of wits only :)

Thanks to Ministry mark / senshi keshi

as for the kettle of water ........... and fairy........

look at the floor or driveway after squirting 200 ml of wd 40 as it leaves the drain holes from your car door

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