Got a call from SWMBO as I was leaving work this evening that made my blood run cold.
The car's showing a yellow "Service" light and shows "CHECK INJECTION" on the trip computer display, but it seems to be running OK. What should I do?
I thought about replying with something along the lines of a gallon of unleaded and a lighter, but instead said to pull over and turn the engine off, wait a few seconds and restart. She did. Lo and behold, light is out, message has gone. She drove it 30 miles home and it was fine.
I left it to get properly cold, and went out to it half an hour ago. The car fires up as normal, but there's a yellow "SERVICE" light and "CHECK INJECTION" message again. I switch off after a few seconds and switch back on. The light and message reappear. Idle is perfect, and as I drive up the road, the engine is pulling fine. After half a mile and hence a slightly warm engine, I pull over, switch off and switch on again. Message gone. Drive for a few miles, with a few more offs and ons. Message does not reoccur. I'm willing to bet it's back on tomorrow morning's cold start though.
I am guessing this is a glowplug fault. Car has done 47k which seems to be about the going rate based on what I've read. Is it just a case of bunging in a set of Berus and all being well, or is there anything else I have to consider?
As I said, there's no indication there's anything untoward. No misfires, still smooth, and it still pulls like a train
That's quite a plausible guess. Code P0380; "Glow-plugs - circuit A; malfunction" is very commonly found on these - which, as you know, don't need glow to start; but use prolonged afterglow, so eat plugs.
Either pop in a set [change with engine very hot] or get the codes read.
Cheers Screwloose. I've had that cover off before just to be nosey and it's no problem, but I just wanted to make the point that it wasn't through being bone idle and not being bothered to go outside and look for myself at how to get to the plugs.
I take it these are bad for snapping off, hence the hot engine suggestion.
Do you know where I can buy Beru plugs from in time for the weekend? Halfords sell Bosch or their own brand (which I fitted before and wouldn't use again) and my local factor who I tend to use for most stuff sells NGK. Is there another brand you'd recommend, or are any of these ok? I must admit I've always rated NGK spark plugs.
It is indeed an F9Q, but it's a late 2004 model, so has had the turbo oil feed and EGR mods done. I researched this very carefully before parting with my money. ;-)
Generic common rail concerns aside, I'm led to believe these updated engines are generally pretty reliable. I've had to replace glowplugs on every diesel I've owned, so I'm not too worried as long as this fixes it.
no3 glowplug had gone open circuit. All the others were OK and glowed nice and bright when wired directly up to the battery, so I just copper greased the threads and refitted them, keeping the new ones for future use.
Anyhow, started from cold this morning and delighted to report that both SERVICE and CHECK INJECTION warnings have cleared. Seems to have done the trick.
Thanks all - especially Screwloose for the excellent techie advice as ever. Just wonder how long before the next one goes. ;-) At least it's a nice easy job - can get all four out in the same amount of time as it takes to do no1 on a Ford Endura or Pug XUD.
They were tight-ish, but not to the point where I worried about them breaking.
I came across this thread while looking for EGR issues. My Scenic II DCI-120 is an early 04 probably made late 03. Can you tell me more about the EGR and turbo oil feed mods you mention? Should I be worried ! how can I check if mine's a good'un or not ?
I've only had it a few months and the power doesn't seem what it was and the turbo hisses more had whistles these days. I'm thinking the EGR is not closing properly, but it looks like a pink fluffy dice to remove to clean. It's the heat exchanger type.
There were modifications to the turbo oil feed and the design of the EGR valve on the F9Q engine in time for production of the Scenic II. I understand that all Scenic II's have this later development of the engine. Renault introduced a scheme called "Yellow OTS" for cars fitted with the earlier engine (mostly Lagunas) which extended the warranty on the engine to 5 yrs / 100,000 miles for cars with a full Renault history. The Scenic II was excluded from Yellow OTS because it had the later engine from day 1.
Usually a sticking EGR valve will cause any diesel engine to smoke noticeably under acceleration. A hissing/whoosing noise and loss of power could be nothing more sinister than a split hose or leak somewhere in the turbo pipework.
Early Scenic IIs can have the unmodified engine. The date of build is the critical point, not the date of registration. The mileage limit is 100,000kms, which is about 92000 miles although Renault UK seems to put the limit at 90000. The car only needs to be serviced according to the schedule at a VAT registered garage. It does not necessarily mean a Renault dealer.
The scheme will presumably end this June when the latest first modified cars are five years old.
Is there an easy way to check the build date, or does the updated engine have any visual clues? Mine's an October 2004 registration (54) so I would hope it has the later engine, unless it spent a lot of time sitting about at the factory or dealer.
Hi, picked up this thread while investigating the same warning indicator on my wifes Scenic. This and following discussion answers all my initial questions, however, I am curious about the instruction to change the glow plugs when the engine is hot, could you explain a little further please why this is necesary. Thanks.
All new C-Max, first Ford on new 'global' 'C sector' platform. Fine combination of ride, handling, performance and economy. Now in 5 and 7 seat formats. Low emission 1.0 litre 3 cylinder Ecoboost petrol engine coming in 2011 or 2012.