88 polo with a pierburg 2e3
it fires straight away then stalls, its reluctant to be coaxed into idleing with a gentle rev(bogs and dies)....on colder mornings its taking about 3 goes until i can coax it into a idle...after 10-15 seconds running it gets into a fast idle and behaves normaly
would anyone agree its the pull down unit? carb has been cleaned with a new filter
i know theres lots of pierburg threads but i cant find a answer
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Check the thermal heater is working , just use a meter to measure the resistance of the insert and check the earch strap at the back left of the carb is intacted. Regards Peter
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why do you say that?
surley the heater wouldnt be hot the split second the car fires ? it fires and dies instantly and cant be coaxed to run with a bit of throttle
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I assume that you have been here
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/?t=8799&v=f
Heavy going but some useful info!
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pmh (was peter)
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yeah that thread is a bit heavy going for me
i just wondered if anyone had any input onmy specific fault...ive asked on some vw forums and the pull down unit sounds likely, id just like a second opinion
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Have you looked down the throttle body to see if the pull down is operating from cold. ??Regards Peter
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can you suggest how i would check that?
i do have a haynes for the car, but im non the wiser after reading it lol
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There seems to be some confusion about the pull down unit,this does not operate the choke,it is a vacuum operated device which opens the choke somewhat at full throttle,It would not stop the choke working properly,the opposite in fact.With the engine cold,press the accelerator to engage the choke,then remove the airfilter so that you can look into the carb to see that the choke has operated correctly.This is the plate at the top of the square venturi and it should be closing it,i.e. almost horizontal.A more likely problem would be air getting in through a split in a vacuum hose and weakening the mixture,so check these.Another possibility is the intlet manifold pre heater,this is electrically operated via a thermoswitch,could just be it's not warming the mixture for those first few seconds.
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i cant belive its the heater as im sure it wouldnt be hot instantly , and the car dies straight away
maybe the choke needs tweaking a bit more? the plate does close after pressing the pedal
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Hi pmh
New to this,
How do I post a request on this thread?
Can't find any helpful 'Post here' boxes!
I have a question re overchoking Carb in very cold weather, (spark plugs were covered in soot, cleaned them) otherwise carb runs OK at normal operating temperature, approx 1100revs.
RTJ
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Nothing complicated about the carb, the stalling could be 101 things & I think thats why you are getting the answers. have you checked the carb mounting, Rubber mount? used to split! Servo hose? is it split? if you have a servo!. Choke setting! sounds like its been backed off at some time, you need a little experience to reconise the problem! Vacum unit on distributor ,is it working or leaking? Temp control unit in air box!, is it leaking air or working? have you checked all the vacum pipes & tested for leaks. Does the carb leak & fuel drain overnight?. Is the float level correct?
Doc
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checked all pipes ..repalced most of them incase
new rubber mount...it was indeed leaky
not being a expert , but everthing seems to be as it should and im reluctant to start randomly messing incase i make it worse
has anyone got/seen the haynes carb manual? i wonder if it has more trouble shooting than the polo manual
and no...they dont have servos
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Have you checked the vacuum take off point at the bottom of the carb? These have a habit of becoming blocked and causing strange problems. Clear it out with a drill bit, about 3mm IIRC.
(This may only apply to the 2E2 - I cannot remember).
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pmh (was peter)
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For the vacuum pull down, you can check if it's OK by pulling the vauum pipe off and sucking. With a cold engine, touch the throttle to allow the choke to close, then, suck on the vac pipe - if the pull down is OK, the choke flaps should open a bit, and you should feel that there isn't a leak in the pull down diaphragm. If, however, you can just keep sucking fresh air, and the choke valve doesn't open a bit, then you need a new pull down diaphragm.
As mentioned by pmh, check to make sure the vacuum drilling in the manifold isn't blocked.
On this installation, I don't know if the vacuum to the pull down unit is switched by any thermally signalled vacuum switches (I'm only familiar with the 2e3 installation on Vauxhalls) - if there are any switches in the vac line, it might be worth temporarily by-passing them as a diagnostic step.
The pull down isn't for high speed operation - the choke valve spindle being slightly offset allows the choke valve to spring open a bit under high speed/airflow conditions - the vacuum pull down is for when the engine is running a bit slower and there's some inlet manifold vacuum present.
Number_Cruncher
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Your local reference library might have the Haynes book
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I have 10+ pages of info about this carb, which you should find helpful, I asume your engine code is 2G and the carb id. is 030 129016F. I can scan and email it to you if you want to take the risk of letting everybody know your email. I don't know any other way of getting it to you. I can't do it until this weekend. I have done this before for someone else on this site re. his 2E2 with no complaints.
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its a MH engine with 2e3....im about ready to find weber tbh ...plus ive now got some issue with the car thats making it undrivable ( see other thread)
might as well look at your info if you dont mind..steve.mm AT hotmail . co. uk (ajust as req ;) )
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Hi,
Did you have any luck with this? I am now experiecing similar problems but have stripped the carb and cleaned it all replacing all gaskets / needles, etc..... replaced the rubber block it sits on. Also replaced the hoses which com of the air box.
No idea where to go now. Sure the autochoke is working as the butterfly is closed when the engine is started but does fully open when warm.
Any ideas would be appreciated.....
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