I am confused as to when to change my cambelt? Model is PDI 130 sport.
Plus I have had alternator warnings flash up and the power steering shrieks on full lock , which sounds like the auxillary drive belt to me , how often should these be changed and is it worth changing all the drive belts if having cam belt done?
{model details added to header}
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 08/10/2007 at 11:16
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Re: alternator warnings, PAS shrieking - it could just be a case of the belt needs tightening up (if it doesn't have it's own tensioner)
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How many miles have you done. The Aux belt drives the Alternator and the steering pump directly and seperate belts indirectly drive the air con and the water pump. Regards Peter
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Cambelt change is 4 years or 60k miles whichever is sooner. There are two aux belts, the longer drives the PAS pump, alternator and viscous coupled fan and has an automatic spring loaded damped tensioner. The shorter aux belt drives the aircon compressor and has a manual tensioner. The water pump is driven from the cambelt.
Your shrieking is almost certainly due to a failed one way clutch which is inside the alternator pulley. Intermittent loss of drive here will put the alternator warning light on. It also plays havoc with the belt drive in general and causes the tensioner to oscillate. These clutches nearly always go at 80 - 90k miles and can be changed fairly easily if you have the splined key.
When you do the cambelt, change tensioner, idler and water pump, using a pattern part with a metal impeller. The OE pumps have a plastic impeller...
659.
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I looked at the wrong drawing set, I pulled the petrol engine not the TDI Yep it's driven by the cam belt. Regards Peter
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Thanks for the advice. I have always worked on my own cars , changing cam belts etc. Reading up on VW it would appear expensive special tools are needed to lock cam etc. I realise reasons , but is it possible to do the job without these tools, by ensuring alignment of camshaft crackshaft etc by other means?
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The tools to lock the engine on the PD 130 are not expensive. The one you must have is T 10050 which locks the crank. It's a "negative" of the crank wheel and fits around it, with a peg to locate it at the front of the engine. The camshaft can be locked with a drill shank.
Laser tools do the whole set, ref. 3978 for less than £20. Don't try to do this job without and make sure you understand the vernier adjustment of the camshaft wheel - it's important to get both the relative positions of the wheels correct and the tension before you lock the camshaft wheel to its hub with the 3 bolts in slotted holes. It's not a bad job to do - once you've fought your way in there.
659.
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Many thanks I have ordered the "kit" for the cambelt change , I intend changing the tensioner and roller , how do I know what tensioner I have as I believe there are a hydraulic and a friction one , my engine is an AVF 2001 TDI 130. Plus I believe it is wise to change the water pump at same time , my car has done 79K
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If the tensioner is hydraulic is it necessary to change the damper at the same time as the tensioner?
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The parts supplier will know from the engine code which type of tensioner is fitted, but I suspect yours is an early (hydraulic) type. Change the damper - you need a slotted plate to keep the damper piston retracted, which is included in the Laser kit I referred to.
659.
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My Passat turns out to be a 2003 model with the friction tensioner , I have it ready to fit the new tensioner now , the Haynes manual is a bit vague on the setting of the tensioner which says lock it with the pointer in the middle of the window on the back plate. The backplate just has a slot at the right hand side , and the pointer on the old tensioner is currently at the left hand edge of the backplate ? Shall I just position it to the middle, presumably if the crank lock and camshaft pin fit after a couple of turns of the crank the tension is OK.
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On a belt which has been running for a while, it's normal for the pointer to end up to the left of the slot. When you fit new parts, the pointer should be set to the middle of the slot.
The essential point is to have the crank wheel and cam hub pegged correctly and the tensioner correctly set before you lock the 3 vernier bolts on the cam wheel. I always re-check this after turning the crank about 4 revolutions by hand following a belt change. You can't rely on the tension being correct with the camwheel locked to its hub - the valve and injector springs exert too much locked-in torque. This, and the need to get the relative positions of the shafts accurately correct despite belt tolerances (and the odd head re-skim) is why the vernier adjustment was fitted. (copied from PSA).
659.
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the frogs.
its the peugot/citroen group, famed for their diesel engine expertise.
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And famed for their ability to design cambelt drives which are well engineered and last well beyond their stipulated maintenance intervals. It's a pity VAG never managed this - owner misery thereby maximised.
659.
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