hi,
I've got a 91 J xr2i. I lost the one and only key for it about six months ago. days after losing them some thieving scum bags came along and robbed my car, they failed but left my car in a very sorry state:( Being the delinquents that they are, they 1st decided to try and bend my door back as far as possible leaving me with a very sorry looking door, but then thought "cant be bothered with this and smashed the window instead. Then they tried to break the steering lock but failed leaving me with a bent steering column, they then ripped off my immobiliser head and damaged that so now i have no keys, an after market immobiliser that's unusable as well.
I need help with the following items:
1. Door removal - I've heard its quite tricky (understatement!!!!) any useful tips please;)
2. Steering column - I've seen these on ebay cheap, how easy to fit, should i send to garage for this?
3. Getting round immobiliser - i follow the cable as far as I can then I just disappears behind the dash? where does this attach to? i think its probably the starter motor but cant see it anywhere under the bonnet? really need help with this to start engine so it doesn't seize.
4. Front arch removal - Spot welded I know, do I just drill these out?
I would appreciate as much help as anyone could give, i know a little bit about cars, but I'm no mechanic.
Swear words captured by filter deleted, spelling corrected. Sorry to be fussy ! - PU (mod)
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first off buy a haynes manual £15 halfords as this will familiarise you with the car
1......the solid pins on fiestas rust into the holes and therefore more than not need heat to remove them,be aware if you hit them too hard and they don't move they then peen over and then will never come out,watch you don't hit the screen by mistake either .My advice? get a local garage to warm and remove the pins for you
2......fairly easy to do look at the new one to see where it bolts up reversal fitting as haynes says,make sure everything is lined up before you tighten everything or its easy to strip the threads
3.......cant really help without seeing the car im afraid,you will just have to backtrack on the aftermarket wiring to where its cut into the loom find the original pieces of loom and rejoin them up (ideally soldered) what the immobiliser does is like divert the wires from whence they ran and take it to the off switch in the immobilisor so what you are doing is closing these tributaries and letting the power flow again down the original wires
4......
In the best traditions of Private Eye er....there's no 4 ! Corrected a misspelling or two I've amended "pean" to read "lean" I assume this is what you meant (from the context) unless its one of these new words I've never heard of ! PU
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pean should read.....................peen
4..........they are rivets and need drilling out Caerphilly ;-)
re-edited for you ! - at least I hedged my bet - PU.
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peening is what a ball peen hammer is for
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I read often, only post occasionally
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and its normal spelling in the UK is pein,
I checked wiki to find the original spelling but didn't read down until I'd posted. Then I read further and my original guess at the spelling was described as "normal for the UK"
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I read often, only post occasionally
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Well you post often enough for me to learn a thing or to. I'l have to work that word into a sentence next week. Apologies for correcting something that wasn't !
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1. The doors are a nightmare to remove as they can only be taken off by driving the hinge pins out. Normally you will find that you have to heat up the hinges with a pair of oxy-acetelyne bottles in order to get the pins to shift. If you haven't got the equipment I would let someone who knows what they are doing remove the door for you. How bent is the door? Is it not possible to bend it back so that it fits about right?
2. The steering column should be fairly easy as it is just a bolt on part. I can't remember exactly how it fits at the bottom but no special tools are required. If the 2nd hand steering column comes with an ignition lock fitted, make sure it comes with the key.
3. In order to bypass the immobiliser then its difficulty will depend on the quality of the immobiliser. It will be a case of tracing where the wiring goes and then figuring out what circuits have been cut and basically putting the wiring back to standard, ie how Ford designed it to be. If you are not competent at auto electrics, then let a professional auto electrician do the job for you. A decent electrician should be able to complete the job in an hour or so.
4. As for your front wheel arch then do you mean the plastic bodykit arch or do you mean the whole front wing?
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thanks people for all your help i really appreciate it.
as for front arches simon, i mean the whole wing. had a quick look this afto at takin em off, i think il leave that to the bodyshop when i get the doors done to be honest.
the immobilser is now off. i was going to leave it but after stripping out all the interior earlier i was able to have a better look at where the cables went. after 6 months of looking all i had to do was tug the wire and this little black box fell out from beneath the dash - bonus!!!
can i just say now, i stumbled across this site by pure accident and the help i have recieved has been incredible thank you so much guys!
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Yeah in that case to get the front wing off properly you have to drill the spotwelds out. Its not a hard job, just a bit tedious.
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You can buy a proper tool for it-bit like an end mill.
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>>You can buy a proper tool for it-bit like an end mill.
Yeah you can, but for one wing its not worth it. A normal decent drill bit will do the job nearly as well. The other way to remove spotwelded wings is to chisel straight down the edge on the inner lip so that you are left just with one strip of metal with the spotwelds holding it on. Then you can just use an angle grinder to remove the spot welds, and at the same time dress up the area where the new one will need to be welded onto. Often this more butcherous way is a lot quicker.
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its the way i used to do them simon as its quicker and you dont run the risk of drilling the inner wing support panel on exactly the place you will need to be welding it
2 warnings though..........chris
1.......cover the windscreen when grindiing chris as otherwise you WILL ruin it (a little alan sugar moment there)
2.....watch the new wings they are razor blades use gloves,i still have part of one of my fingers missing after getting this wrong on a mk3 wing
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thanks guys, really helped. got one wing off (eventually). nearlly hacked a finger off on a sharp and very rust edge but thankfully no damage.
hope your finger grows back soon if not you should see a freind of mine. he's no doctor but he always fixes peoples accidents very well.
as for the screen, not really bothererd bout that, car is getting total refurbishment including brand new glass allround.
ive also got a filler cap replacement panel. do i just grind out where the new panel will fit and get someone to weld it in?
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ive also got a filler cap replacement panel. do i just grind out where the new panel will fit and get someone to weld it in?
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>>>>>>>>.
>>>>>>>>basically yes,it would be neater if you slid the new panel behind the original wing, seem welded it, grind it back, then bring the level flush with filler.
But you need to know that they have a sponge between the inner and outer wings this soaks up water and causes the rot,therefore make sure inner panel is not corroded.
If i was keeping this car then i would put a complete rear wing on it,the only difficult part is sliding it in to the sill neatly,the only part where you would have to use filler would be on the c post so the job can easily be made very neat and it would last forever if undersealed
a new wing from sel imperial or beevers panels should be about £75 these days
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