Evening all,
Just returned from having a new box & centre pipe, box & tail pipe fiited and a front pipe reseal at the local exhaust fitters. The engine now idles at 1600rpm rather than its usual 900 or so. Will this calm down or should I be concerned? As always any advice or comments gratefully received.
(The car is a P reg, 85000 miles.)
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They could have knocked the accelerator cable or it could be sticking, i would check that the lever returns to it's stop
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Thankyou. Had a look. Accelerator cable operates a pot which presumably is connected to the ECU. Pot returns to its end stop and there is slack in the cable and turning the pot operates the throttle (or whatever it is in diesels) quite ok. I know nothing about lambda sensors but they seem to get the blame for everything, could that be troubled by the new bits? Or is it not relevent?
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dear cholin.have been following your tribulations with over revving on your pug. i have the same problem with my 406 TD 2.1 1998 model executive twin cam 12 valve. Have you got it solved yet? I have searched scrap yards for secondhand Lucas CAV pump in spain,france and U.K. and this model is as rare as rocking horse treacle. All the scrapmen just laugh when you enquire! Mine is in the early stages of failure,I think, as it over revs. intermittently to about 1200 rpm, and eventually stops it after stopping engine a few times,then its OK for an hour or two. You do not say if you have it cured yet. I live on the Isle of Man so we have very little back up here for problem solving.Please drop me an email and let me know your present stage of this problem.
{I'll leave you to guess which word has been changed.}
Edited by Dynamic Dave on 19/12/2007 at 12:40
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The real cure, if it is a pump problem, is to fit a mechanical pump from an XM, all the 2.1s up to '96 used them, and in my experience they last forever. If you replace a Lucas/CAV pump with a Bosch, you will have to change the injector pipes as well. I belive the throttle cable is the same so will transfer to the pump - it is on the XM anyway.
Peter.N.
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I really thought I had posted an answer to this problem when it was first mooted. The problem was cured as some people had suggested elsewhere by changing a temperature sensor. Not knowing which one I took the car to the local dealer and had a quiet word with their alleged expert who assured me it couldn't possibly be a sensor. So I booked it in for a diagnostic, when I turned up they had sent their diagnostic guy off. This was a nuisance as I was going to wait for the car. However when we resolved this and I turned up several hours later they said "It's a temperature sensor (possibly 'mate' but I can't remember)" Being 70 odd I don't know whether to be flattered or peeved when I'm called mate. They sold me a sensor said they wouldn't charge me for the diagnostic as they had been a pain. So in the end I went home quite happy and fitted the sensor which didn't make a blind bit of difference. Back to the dealer, another diagnostic, "Told you the wrong sensor (mate). We've fitted the right one here's the bill." "How about me tenner back for the wrong filter?" "Sorry you had a free diagnostic last time." They charged me for the second one. Anyway it cured the trouble, the (wrong) one that I changed is a green one in the vicinity of the fuel filter if I remember. The corect one is on the end of the engine somewhere I believe. There are a lot of knowledgable blokes on this forum - someone will know where.
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Was it a brown one for the Bitron relay? It all depends on what - if any - air-con is fitted. Some are networked - some aren't. [I'd have gone for the green engine management one too.]
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I should have mentioned the "Fast idle" problem went away of it's own accord. The problem cured by fitting the sensor was a rise in the revs not neccessarily on start-up but at any time. It was intermittant and quite worrying, especially if you were in gear at the time.
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I've just been and had a look under the bonnet The brown bitron sensor is adjacent to a blue one. It was the blue (not green) that they gave me to change. I believe that the one they changed which did the job was the green one lower down on the nearside end of the block. Sorry for the confusion but this particular trouble was a while ago.
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That makes sense; the blue one is the dash gauge.
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