I'm looking to get a BMW 528 SE but the cars in the price range I want to pay are all above 100K miles.
I know I'm a tight git and don't really want to pay more than 4grand for it, but I reckon I could pick up a bargin,
as all I ever hear is how these BMW are just worn in at 100K and that they could do another 100K if the service history is kept up.
All I want to know is, if anyone has experiance with high miler BMW's, then whats there opinion on this and could they give me any advice.
Cheers
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If you are a tight git, you wont like a 100k mile beemer. Can be a money pit.
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TourVanMan TM < Ex RF >
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I've seen 100k mile BMW's that would do another 100k miles (but not without some replacement parts along the way). I've also seen 100k mile BMW's that are shot out and wouldn't do another 10k without major work.
A lot depends on how they've been driven and how well serviced.
As a rule of thumb - any turbo is suspect.
Front suspension needs careful checking, as does the steering rack.
Rear subframe bushes.
Propshaft and driveshaft bearings/boots/couplings - as appropriate.
Engine cooling system.
Check all elecrical accessories work as they should - esp. the climate control system.
Like any car they are complex pieces of machinery and things go wrong from time to time. So be prepared for the odd unexpected expense.
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Great car I just sold my 88k 530d and it was almost as fresh as it came out of the factory, I was thinking about a 528 as a replacement as they get cracking reviews and the economy is not bad. I would emphasise the front suspension check, when cold there can be quite a bit of judder. The arms on a post 100k car should have been replaced.
Aprila gave an excellent description of what to check. FBMW s/h with a recent invoice to check for comments would be great.
Good luck and remember www.bmwland.co.uk
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I bought an Nreg E34 520i at 130,000 and sold it 2 years later at 150,000. It needed a new battery and a new backbox (both were 10 year old originals). I also replaced a corroded fuel breather pipe, though if the tank was never filled above half no-one would be the wiser. As a precaution I changed the water pump, thermostat, fan coupling and drive belt. At its last MOT the tester suggested that I might need new front bushings for the next test, but it passed just fine with remarkably low exhaust emissions (tester's comment to me).
I now have a 330d that I bought with 84,000 and the only give away to its age/mileage is a few stone chips on the bonnet/ bumper and worn leather on the driver's seat. I changed a propshaft coupling that was worn, but at £155 all in and a 70-80,000 mile service life, I can live with that. I fully expect this car to last even longer than the previous one.
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Glad to hear you're still enjoying it.....
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I think at this mileage you have to inspect the car and it's history very thoroughly.
I'd rather have one that's done 150K and just everything done, than one at 80k that needs new dampers, control arms, tie rods, steering idler, anti-roll bar links, exhaust etc....
If the mileage is not verifiable by old MOTs and service bills (printed not smudged stamps in a book any 10 year old could forge) then you should assume it's been clocked, large high mileage executive cars are a favourite clocker's car, so go on material condition.
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Your local BMW dealer unloads high mileage cars down the feeding chain, always worth a punt.
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i have not replied on this thread earlier as i think the bmw e39 5 series car is a "classic" and so is the question (which union-jack will understand) and i have nothing to say in reply to the original question.
however - my reply is to ashok leyland: >> I think at this mileage ... >>
what mileage do you mean by that?
also >> large high mileage executive cars are a favourite clocker's car, .. >>
i thought honestjohn has said here that these tricks not so common now and are a thing of the past because of service histories being stored on dealer's computers and mileage on the dvla database.
bmw e39's are solidly built. i have seen examples of the type driven by "enthusiastic drivers" that aprilia normally describes as "thrashed" , but even so at 5 to 10 years old and with over 125k plus miles on the clock are looking and driving as if just straight out of the factory.
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I usually buy large executive cars with 100-120k on the clock.
The state of them varies considerably.
Some are 3-4 years old and just out of warranty with one lease company owner.
Some have history to about 60k and then Kwikfit oil change receipts.
Some people don't seem bothered about getting issues resolved and let them build up until they get rid of the car. Some cars are just plain lemons that the previous owner was please to get rid of.
There is a whole black market of clocked cars of this ilk, some used car dealers specialise in it, selling these to known regular customers who do astronomical mileages in a short time and then taking them back after a year or two and setting a mileage 10-20k over what it was last time they sold it.
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here is the comment by honestjohn i was looking for:
'Haircutting' - Honestjohn Mon 25 Apr 05 20:34
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=31146&...e
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i thought honestjohn has said here that these tricks not so common now and are a thing of the past because of service histories being stored on dealer's computers and mileage on the dvla database. bmw e39's are solidly built. i have seen examples of the type driven by "enthusiastic drivers" that aprilia normally describes as "thrashed" , but even so at 5 to 10 years old and with over 125k plus miles on the clock are looking and driving as if just straight out of the factory.
Clocking is alive and well, believe me. Anyone who thinks not could be in for a nasty shock. Relatively few BMW's have a dealer history going beyond about 4-5 years (a lot drop out of dealer servicing once the warranty is up and go to idenpendents). Most sellers don't complete the DVLA mileage boxes. There are some good straight cars about but also a lot of duds that have been clocked, overheated and had parts swapped etc.
In terms of cars being 'thrashed'.... Well, I'm an 'enthusiastic driver' - that means I do red-line the engine from time to time - but only when its warmed up. When I change gear I pause in neutral for a split-second and then ease into the next gear under light finger pressure, letting the synchro do its work. I also recognise the clutch as a 'progressive' device and not an on-off switch. Unfortunately a lot of BMW's are bought as company cars for desk-jockeys - often guys with lots of testosterone and big egos but no mechanical knowledge or sympathy. The results is cars that have been 'thrashed' - race out of the company car park on a cold engine and ram the gear lever back and forth, abrupt action on the clutch etc. This stuff takes its toll on any car. Wear on 3rd gear synchro is a fairly common problem. Test for it by trying to do a swift 2-3 upshift at about 2500rpm with the gearbox cold/cool. If you feel a 'snick' or (worse) any 'grinding' as the lever goes into 3 then the synchro is worn and will only get worse. Rectification requires a gearbox strip down and replace 3rd gear synchro components.
Very few E39's will feel factory fresh at 125k - most 10 year old ones would be a money pit and not make much at auction.
If you look at the front suspension design you'll see that longitudinal wheel location is poor - look at the lower arm design. Compare with say a Merc C-class which has a whopping great wishbone assembly that almost never gives trouble (apart from the balljoints - but that's another issue).
Most E39 with over about 80k you can 'feel' the front wheel moving about if you go over a big drain cover or the like - the front end can also start to feel skittish and brake judder may become evident. Won't fail the MoT, but will benefit from replacing that lower arm - GSF and ECP keep them on the shelf because they are a fairly fast moving part. Other suspension parts will show the miles too, including rear bushes and dampers. Rear bush replacement it a bit of a pig and not cheap - even at an independent. I have done one and don't want to do another.
If buying one of these cars then they merit a proper inspection as much as any other car of the same age. Don't get suckered into buying an overpriced problem car just because its a BMW and has been well valeted.
Incidentally, you can take or leave the above info but it was gained by getting my hands dirty on real cars, not something heard in a pub or told to me by a 'mate who had one'...
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"Which union-jack will understand"
Dalglish - I serpently do!
Salaams
Jack
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don't really want topay more than 4grand for it,
TVM's right...
Budget on another £4k for fuel, tyres, bushes etc...
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Aprilia, how does the E46 compare wear-wise? You said few E39's will feel factory fresh at 125k miles - so far I've driven an 88k 525i SE and a 95k 530i Sport and both felt identical in terms 'freshness' to my fathers 40k 530d SE. Similarily, I've had a poke around a 102 E46 330d Sport which also showed no obvious signs of wear.
I'm not disputing your opinion, I value it, I just want to know what it is which will make them detorioriate noticeably after 100k.
As you know, I'm looking to spend £6000-£8000 at auction on a 2000-2002 100k+ 530i Sport, the logic being if my Mk2 Mondeo can handle it I'd be dissapointed if a BMW could not. Is this logic flawed?
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E46 suffers similarly with its front suspension - plus various other flaws that are no doubt listed in HJ's CBCB.
On balance I would always go for a 5-series, not because it is necessarily better engineered but because the 5- is likely to have had an easier life than a 3-. The 3-series are often given as company cars to young Jack-the-lad accountant types who will drive it hard. 5- is more likely to end up in the hands of more mature middle managers.
They are good cars, all I'm saying is don't believe that 'you can't go wrong' just because it has a BMW badge on it. Pretend its a Mondeo that you're buying and be just as cautious. If its a c.100k miles or more car that you're buying then budget for some bushes, belts, and a few other odds and ends and you should be fine.
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