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What is causing my 2.0 L reg AUTO cavalier to only drive at 50mph on the flat and then drop to 30 on a climb. It refuses to go faster. HELP
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I would say the ecu is in limp home mode.(anyone correct if wrong) if a problem with one or more sensors the ecu uses man settings to get you home.You then need to get someone to check out what the problem/problems are
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Steve
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agreed...
the car is in limp mode
happened to me once on a merc,,,the dealer had overfilled the oil by 1/2 litre and the car then refuse to change out of its 1st gear(auto)
have u done anything to it recently???
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www.storme.co.uk
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I am not sure an L reg Cavvy has a limp home mode.
We need more details tho, does the car rev ok in neutral? chang e gear ok?
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I am not sure an L reg Cavvy has a limp home mode.
It does. Even my old E reg Cavlier had a limp home mode - which is indicated by the ecu light flashing after the engine has started. If this is the case then the fault code can be diagnosed by shorting out 2 pins in the ecu plug with a paperclip.
More details here:-
www.topbuzz.co.uk/info/fault_codes/fault_codes.htm
{::edit:: the ecu light doesn't flash if there is a fault. It will only flash if there'sa problem with the immobilser. DD.}
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Yes it has a warning light, and codes, but i still dont recall a limp home mode. ie nothing to limit the engine revs.
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From vague memory of my Cavalier handbook; if the ecu light comes on whilst driving (ignore my earlier comment about it flashing - that only occurs if the immobiliser is at fault) the engine goes into an emergency running program. Performance and fuel ecomomy may well be effected by this. Performance is reduced to help protect the engine from further damage.
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Still think that cavaliers with that vintage ECU go into a default mode, which while not perfect is not significantly performance reduced.
could always be wrong of course, and it dont fix the original posted problem.
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I would check the basic things first - plugs, leads, distributor cap & rotor, air filter, check free movement of the air flow meter flap, check for leaks on the large rubber pipe between air flow meter and throttle body, ensure correct cam timing (takes 5 minutes to get enough of the cover loose to see the timing marks on the cam), then, having checked the obvious, I would see if there were any faults stored.
Limp home on these cars isn't as brutal and abvious as it is on some makes. Years ago, as a bit of fun, I played around with one of these engines to see how few engine sensors it needed to run. IIRC, I could get it running with just the crank angle sensor and the injectors plugged in (running like a donkey though!).
Switching the ignition on and off 20 times will clear the fault codes. If you read the fault codes without the engine running, you will get a fault (TC 31 IIRC) but don't worry about it.
Number_Cruncher
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Well solved the problem of the car going slow. Driving along at a steady 48mph the back box blew itself apart, well on one side of the box it's burst open at the seam. The car then drove as it should, nice n quickly but quite throaty (sounds better to lol) when I replace the back box, will the problem come back? Or was it just a blockage and it's now cured itself?
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I imagine the original backbox was past it's sell by date, and a new one should make the car go even better than it does now. At the moment with a hole in the backbox, you have no back pressure in the exhaust system.
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Box was well and truly rotten,blocked the exhaust causing the exhaust gasses back into cylinder.pressure build up caused it to blow open,would suggest cheap boxes may go same way but more than likely after warranty has run out?
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Steve
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Although prior to this there was air hissing out of the mid to rear section just before it went pop. Still it def. goes better than it did.
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Having bought a few Cavalier back boxes over 17 years I can confirm that whilst slightly more expensive, the ones fitted by Vauxhall Masterfit centres are miles better than most other fastfit centres.
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