Citroen BX starting problem - Bogwheeler
While contemplating my Xsara's stubborn door, my neighbour sought help with his J-rej BX which he can't start.
Although he does very low mileage the plugs and all the leads seemed in good nick but on cranking the engine I could see no spark. It's a 1.9 (carburettor) with electronic ign. in what looks like a conventional distributor. There was no warning of any developing problem. Anybody know any known problem areas we could start with?
Citroen BX starting problem - Crinkly Dave
Leads?
Similar setup on my Pug 405, but no need to remove distributor cap for points change, and I found the cap was shorting internally as it had not been cleaned for 100K or so.
Citroen BX starting problem - Jamesh266
My best guess would be the distributor cap - mine used to need replacing every couple of years.

Do you get a spark from the lead connecting the coil to the distributor? If not, then it will probably either be the coil or the electronic ignition module (far cheaper from Andyspares/GSF than the main dealer).
Citroen BX starting problem - JohnPug
I would agree with the ignition module, I had a 405 whose module failed suddenly without warning.
Citroen BX starting problem - rg
There's plenty of BX-specific help elsewhere on the 'net if, (albeit unlikely) the suggestions by the worthy messageboarders don't provide a fix.

There's the excellent Andyspares/GSF Citroen forum, plus a dedicated BX club.

rg
Citroen BX starting problem - Number_Cruncher
If you are sure there is no spark from the coil, then I would begin some basic tests - which are fairly generic to all cars with this type of ignition setup;

Is there live at the coil and the amplifier when the ignition is on, *and* when cranking?

Is the coil primary and secondary resistance OK? Check for mechanical damage to the coil, and for any tracking of the HT to earth.

Is the amplifier earthed adequately? Well worth five minutes taking apart, cleaning, greasing, and reassembling this vital earth connection.

What type of ignition sensor is it? Hall Effect, or inductive, or optical? Once you know this, you can mimic the signal, and see if that gives a spark.

If all of the basic checks work out OK, you usually end up with one of two situations;

1) If you can get a spark by mimicking the sensor, then that suggests that the sensor is duff - so a replacement distributor is probably required (sometimes, you can get individual bits, like the windings for some inductive types).

2) If you can't get a spark by mimicking the sensor, that suggests the amplifier is past it.

I hope that helps,

Number_Cruncher