I have got a Hawk Tune-Up Analyzer at a boot sale but I don't know how to use it! There are 4 wires coming out, a red and a black with crocodile clips and a red and a black which have bare wires at the end. Can anyone tell me how to connect it?
I would guess that this gauge has a display that can show dwell, rpm, and perhaps voltage?
If it is then it is realy for an old car, (Pre 1992 ish) that has got a points and condenser ignition system. If you have a car with electronic igntion then it will not be much use.
I would suspect that two wires will go to the battery, and the other red will go to the negative side of the coil, the black MAY then go to earth. What exactly is on the display?
Thanks for your reply. I have 1970's cars, a Daf 66 and a Volvo 66. Don't cars have points any more? I also have a modern transporter van but it is diesel. The display has tach, dwell, amp, volt, point and off.
However, I've got my doubts whether it's the same as the unit that you have. I do know that Hawk made quite a range of tune-up equipment and accessories, and what I have is just one of them.
My unit is called a Hawk Exhaust Gas Analyzer, model number 64-4057E. It's purpose is purely to set the carburettor air/fuel mixture ratio, and nothing else. It doesn't carry out any other tests like resistance of points, dwell, RPM, etc. It purely measures the air/fuel ratio and CO %. Wouldn't be of much use on a modern car!
The wiring connections are a Black and Red crocodile clip lead which go to the 12 volt battery or power supply.
There are then three very short leads, Red, White and Blue, which all feed into an unusual three-pronged connector. This then connects to about a 12 foot long 3-core lead which connects the Analyser to the sensor which samples the exhaust gasses. This also has a matching three-pronged connector on it. The sensor is meant to be clipped to the read bumper using 4 springs which are supplied. Try doing that on a Mondeo!
To me, the most interesting thing about it is the fact that it's made in Japan! Obviously produced before manufacturing in that country became prohibitively expensive.
I do have the water damaged instruction sheet still, but I'm not 100% convinced that I've got the same unit as yourself. If you did want a copy then I'm sure we could sort something out, please do let me know.
Thanks for your trouble, much appreciated. Mine is made in Japan as well, but it is nothing like your unit. Strictly a tune-up analyzer with tach, dwell, amp, volt, point and off settings. I might try connecting the red and black crocodile clips to the battery like yours does. The other red and black leads that are bare wires presumably did have some sort of connector at one time. I maybe should put a pair of croc clips on them and have a play. Best wishes, Martin.
OK then, martin66, perhaps your unit is a bit more like this one that I just found on ebay. The bloke selling it says it takes a 9 volt battery so I don't know what the Red and Black leads with crocodile clips are for. Must be for carrying out one of the tests, rather than powering the thing.
I have one of these Hawk gas analysers in the shed, but don't have the instruction book so don't know how to use and set the unit.
I know that the topic was discussed some time ago but is a scanned copy of the instruction book still available.
I have one of them too..The two aligator clips are for battery hook up. My other two leads are attached to a copper bar with a wire connection on one end and a spade lug on the other to test amperage...Forgot how to do dwell ,points and rpm.
With a dwell meter, you normally need connection between the CB terminal and earth and a power supply for the meter (unless it has like mine home made and using a built-in battery). I'd guess this one has a a second pair of leads for the battery to power it up.
On mine you set the meter to 90 degrees for a 4 cyl, 60 deg for a 6 cyl and when the car runs the meter drops back to indicate the dwell angle.
The one on ebay is like mine but in mine the bottom half with the knob on is much smaller, more like a stem, and there is no room for a battery inside so I guess that the croc clips are for a power supply (on the pcb they are marked and -) and the other leads go between the CB terminal and earth (on the pcb they are marked A and A-). There are different scales for 8 cyl and 6 cyl dwell and rpm, and it says 4 cyl = 8 cyl x 2. I'll try it out tomorrow - fingers crossed. I hope the thing works after all this! I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks for all your help. Martin.
It seems to work without a power supply. With the red croc clip on the CB terminal and the black clip earthed it gave readings for:
tach (300 x 2 for 4 cyl = 600 I guess)
dwell (24 degrees x 2 for 4 cyl = 48 degrees - should be 55 - must adjust)
point - there is a "points ok" area but the needle was in the middle of the "points bad" area - what do they mean by bad exactly?
there was no reading for amp, however when I connected the other two leads with the bare wires across a 9 volt battery the needle went off the scale so perhaps that is what these leads are for - what is an ammeter used for, just for checking the alternator? Do you connect it between the alternator and the battery positive terminal?
I no nothing about your analyser, this is just a general comment.
An ammeter is for measuring the current flowing in a circuit. Current is measured in amperes. I would strongly advise against using it to measure the alternator output, this can be anything up to or above 50/60 amps. I doubt if your analyser will withstand this much current. Most common ammeters run out of steam at about 10. Higher current readings are usually done with a shunt resistor connected to the instrument.
Do yourself a favour.You bought it at a boot sale..As you said not complete and not calibrated. Do not rely on readings you get as they may be false..Unlikely it is going to be accurate..Unless bought from secure source you have no guarantee it will work correctly.And if any possible problems. you have no comeback..Bits missing on boot sale items I wont buy! could be dangerous.Just my thoughts
Please can you upload again Hawk Exhaust Gas Analyser Instruction Sheet, because only the first page is active others were deleted.
I have an analyzer of this type, and I did not have the owners manual , and can not use it. Thank you Cristian
Martin66, I was looking for instructions on how to connect my Hawk 610 Tune-Up and Diagnostic mini-analyzer, because the page for the basic hook up is missing from my instruction book, the basic hookup is black croc clip to battery ground, the red croc clip to the negative of the coil this is for dwell readings. The other two red and black on yours is missing a shunt bar that will test charging current for alternator or generator. The bar is, was in your case a 3 inch piece of brass with "U" connectors on each end. This analyzer is for cars with points and condenser. Mine still works good
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