I had a car die on me recently: all ignition circuits were dead and no ignition light. Lights and hazards working and central locking.
I checked fuses and fusible links and looked for loose connections.
After about an hour, the warning lights came on and the car started and ran normally.
My prime suspect is the ignition switch, although the car seems to be OK now.
Any ideas?
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Had similar symptoms in a Fiat Strada; was the engine to body earth strap.
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Likewise on a Cavelier. The problem drove me mad for weeks, and even a couple of garages failed to find the problem. When I had a new exhaust fitted it was the fitter who spotted the fault.
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The same fault happened again tonight! The engine died whilst driving.
Lights working, but no ignition light. The entire ignition controlled-circuit dead only.
After a short while, all working fine.
If it were the earth strap would not the ignition light at least work, given the low current draw? ( I have changed the ignition switch)
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If the alternator can't earth through the engine, you won't see the igntion light, I think. Next time it dies, try earthing the engine to the body with a jump lead.
Time for some professional help. HELP!
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this is another thing that happens to my mothers car, but i want to get it fixed soon, because when she goes to work she goes over two lots of train tracks, so if it cuts out/stops on the tracks - i just dont want to think about what might happen.
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i dont know if its the same, but when i try to start my mothers car, it sometimes just clicks, but the lights work and hazards, and dashboard lights. what could it be???
p.s. its had a battery two years ago, a recent alternator, a second hand starter motor, new spark plugs, new HT leads. so i dont think its any of those.
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LAS
Sounds like a poor connection either onto the battery or engine earth strap.
You've got a good enough connection to run a few amps for the lights & ignition, but it won't pass the 100 or so amps to run the starter.
Take off the connections, clean up with emery, replace and tighten securely.
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...and wipe with Vaseline to prevent further corrosion.
(sorry for butting in Brian).
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Are you quite sure about the starter motor? We had a similar thing just recently on our Mondeo, it just whirls and clicks. New starter motor, no problem. Starts first time now
Kev
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My father told me how his car, a Ford V8 Pilot, was struck by lightening years ago. He stayed in it, thus not earthing it. (Rubber tyres) All electrics were dead. After about 1/2 hour it was back to normal. (Dispersion I think it's called, where the static electricity goes to "ground" through damp etc even though insulated by rubber)
Roger, perhaps you were struck by lightening!
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Quote"... told me how his car, a Ford V8 Pilot, was struck by lightening years ago. He stayed in it, thus not earthing it. (Rubber tyres) All electrics were dead. After about 1/2 hour it was back to normal. (Dispersion I think it's called, where the static electricity goes to "ground" through damp etc even though insulated by rubber)
Roger, perhaps you were struck by lightening!..." un-uote.
Urm, I think that car tyres contain graphite and are thus conductive?
Anyone know if this is right?
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Absolutely right! I once had a tractor towing a drilling rig with its mast up (bad practice) along the edge of a field when one set of wheels fell into a rut and caused the rig mast to tilt and momentarily touch an 11000v. power line. One rear tyre exploded and the other three had their sidewalls patterned with delicate tracery.
The operator was unhurt and the charge had dissipated - I assume through the tyres.
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LAC
Sorry, forgot to include in last post:
If you have a lead or strap with a flange with a hole in it which is bolted onto the battery or starter or engine, make sure that the flange is flat and that there is a washer between it and the nut.
Put the flange on a flat (preferably solid metal) surface and tap gently with a hammer until it looks and feels OK.
What happens is that the flange "dishes" after being tightened down a few times, so that you have contact in the middle which will take a few amps, but not enough contact area to take full load.
I would check one joint at a time rather than strip everything down at once.
El Dingo, do feel free to butt in but, personally, I have never been keen on too much grease around electrics except in a marine environment. A little on the outside seems OK, but I feel that if you have a slightly dodgy contact (as above) then grease between the surfaces will make things worse.
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the battery connections have ALOT of grease on them, so i will first be cleaning it off to see if that does anything.
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Brian,
Absolutely true! It is better IMHO to avoid grease betwen the contact surfaces or indeed getting grease on any electrics!
What I meant was to smear Vaseline around the completed joint, thus keeping air/water away from the joint.
I use Vaseline in this way to prevent corrosion on battery terminals and earth straps, but I don't know if this is still current 'professional' practice.
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If it is a poor connection, corroded, or poorly clamped, the easy way to find it (assuming voltmeter is not readily to hand) is let it takea high current for a few moments and look for the temperature rise at the joint. Beware it can be VERY hot!
It is surprising how many small resistances add up to result in a failure.
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I had problem that LAS describes - only a click on turning ignition key. Tracked it down to the starter solenoid. The contacts inside were worn. To save money, I reassembled solenoid after some adjusting and never had another problem.
Another problem where starter jams occassionally was solved by pushing the car in gear till it freed - took two people and about 1 yard push. Caused by worn gear on the flywheel that starter motor meshed into. Finally solved by replacing with exchange starter.
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similar thing andrew - the starter gets old and tired, and unless the contacts are close, no joy.
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