I've just bought a 2nd hand S80 2.9 with 63,000 on the clock. Doesn't look like the timing belt has been changed as its not mentioned on the service history and the engine looks remarkably untouched around that area (though its admittedly hard to tell for someone as mechanically clueless as me).
Does anyone know at what mileage I should have the belt changed?
Apparently the car should require another service at 66,000.
Should I get it done then?
I drive a 2003 Volvo V70 2.4T, for which the first timing belt change is due at 93,000 miles (150,000 kilometres). I believe this figure is common to all Volvo five and six cylinder engines as fitted to P2 platform models (S60, V70, and S80), plus in the case of the five cylinder engines, the Ford Focus based S40 and V50.
A quick phone call to the service department of your local Volvo dealer would doubtless elicit a confirmatory answer though, in the event that I'm wrong or the schedule has been revised (which amounts to the same thing!).
As part of looking into Volvo S60 D5 as replacement, I checked out local main dealer service costs: at the 96,000 mile mark - £677.99, including timing belt change. Usual charge about £300 for routine service.
Do both, now. It will save you in the long run. Get an independent quote - not a main dealer. Do the tensioner too - a lot of Volvos use French engines, which are under-engineered on components, to save costs. My daughter`s Peugeot blew the engine because the tensioner pulley failed - puney little bearing, wrote off the belt, which wrote off the engine, one month after purchase. Horrid little car. You could of course consider getting an ancient Ford Sierra (not Escort) - they were built like tanks, and engines would last 400,000 miles. That`s why the minicab owners loved them.
I've got a S80 2004 D5, timing belt due change is 96,000 miles but I've just done it now at 81,000. The belt I removed still looked in very good condition, no sign of wear at all, looked like it would do another 81,000. I also changed the idler and tensioner at the same time, just to be on the safe side.
Total cost was £90 to buy the parts and I did it myself so saved quite a lot of money. It was not easy however, mainly due to the lack of space. It would be a doddle with the enine on a bench but in situ you really struggle to get both hands in, you then cannot see for your own hands just to add to the problem. You need to make a tool up to lock the crankshaft as the centre nut is mega tight and requires lots of torque to remove and replace.
All in all it was worth the effort due to the savings.
One question - does anybody know what effect it would have had on the engine if I had had the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets one belt indent out of line with each other?. I ask this as it would have been very easy to do due to the restrictions I mentioned above.
what effect it would have had on the engine if I had had the crankshaft and camshaft sprockets one belt indent out of line with each other
I guess different engines are "different" especially with that one being 5 cylinder.
On the wee 4-cyl VAG 1.6 (code AKL) we have, the haynes says to rotate the crankshaft 1/4 turn anti-clockwise (whilst leaving the camshaft on the timing marks) after removing the belt as this will draw all pistons to centre eliminating any chance of piston to valve contact.
if you are a tooth out then no damage done, but engine a bit down on performance/economy and idle not quite right, not as smooth as it should be. After fitting belt, rotate engine a few times and check everything comes back into line.
I use not only manfrs timing marks but I also use tippex on the pulleys before taking the old belt off, sort of belt and braces approach.
I use not only manfrs timing marks but I also use tippex on the pulleys
before taking the old belt off sort of belt and braces approach.
I do this too, and it works well. According to the Haynes book for my S60, the factory timing marks on the 5cyl Volvo engines are incredibly faint and difficult to see, so this is especially relevant here.