Has anyone out there changed brake pads on late shape 323 or 330 CI coupe BMW's?
Just want to know if there is any particular procedures that have to be carried out apart from the usual precautions when changing pads on an ABS equipped car, ie prevent back flow into the ABS computer/brake unit?
Thanks in advance
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Managed to replace discs and pads all round and I must say compared to some cars I've worked on, it was a straight forward job. Here is a tip if anyone out there needs to change rear discs/pads. Support rear hub/suspension arm using a scissor jack and then unbolt lower shock absorber mount. This will enable access to caliper slide bolts (7mm hex bolt)
Clean up disc/hub mounting face and then lightly wipe a smear of copper based grease. Make sure it is only a trace as any buildup could cause run out problems. It only needs to be enough to stop corrosion. Try to use correct piston expansion tool when retracting pistons for pad fitment. Wind back slowly and keep eye on fluid level in reservoir.
Spanner
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Try to use correct pistonexpansion tool when retracting pistons for pad fitment. Wind back slowly and keep eye on fluid level in reservoir. Spanner
You should crack open the bleed nipple to allow the excess fluid to exit there, rather than being forced back into the reservoir.
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Thanks Aprilia
In normal situations I would have released the bleed nipple and clamped the hose to prevent back flow potentially upsetting the ABS unit. Unfortunately the bleed nipples appeared to be seized and in generally poor condition which surprised me considering the age and make of car. Didn't want to risk snapping them.
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Thanks Aprilia In normal situations I would have released the bleed nipple and clamped the hose to prevent back flow potentially upsetting the ABS unit. Unfortunately the bleed nipples appeared to be seized and in generally poor condition which surprised me considering the age and make of car. Didn't want to risk snapping them.
BMW calipers and bleed nipples are much the same as on any modern car (BMW don't make them). Put penetrating oil around the nipple the day before you do the job. Tap the nipple with a small hammer (straight down on 'top' of it) to help break the rust seal. Then gently crack it open. When finished, put a large blob of waterproof grease around the base of the nipple and it'll be dead easy next time.
I always keep a few spares to hand - new nipples (11mm) are £2.50 from the BMW dealer and the little rubber caps are 50p.
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>>I always keep a few spares to hand
& having read that tip previously, I tried to buy some Audi ones - at main dealer. Oh no sir, we don't stock those, you'll have to order them she said - as she supplied me with the obscure front discs I asked for...
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When I change discs, I usually buy the retaining screws, usually allen-key. I have often had to angle-grind the disc/screw away to remove the disc, and then replace the screw. The allen key always slips in the hole or it's seized solid.
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>>I always keep a few spares to hand & having read that tip previously, I tried to buy some Audi ones - at main dealer. Oh no sir, we don't stock those, you'll have to order them she said - as she supplied me with the obscure front discs I asked for...
They should be able to get them next day; failing that most larger motor factors will stock brake nipples or you could try a brake specialist like Automec (www.automec.co.uk).
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Thanks Aprilia
Did all that but the nipples still didn't want to shift without distorting. Car belongs to a friend of mine and bought it from a non franchised BMW specialist. It had a full BMW service history before it ended up in the hands of the dealer but having looked at the state of the discs, pads and general condition of the running gear, I suspect it was long overdue for a service. Even had problems removing road wheels due to corrosion between alloy wheel and steel hub. No sign of anti-seize copper grease anywhere so it was obvious that the supplying dealer had just rubbed an oily rag over it before selling it!
Rear handbrake shoes were trashed with the lining delaminated on nearside and of course the seized nipples.
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Just had mine changed on a 2000 318, cost £45 at ATS (front only)
Ar that price i didn't think it was worth getting my hands dirty.
Don't know how much they would be on yours but it worth getting a quote.
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Just had mine changed on a 2000 318, cost £45 at ATS (front only) Ar that price i didn't think it was worth getting my hands dirty. Don't know how much they would be on yours but it worth getting a quote.
Not for me thanks. I always work on my own brakes so I know the job's done properly. I certainly would not use a fast-fit outfit (not unless I was physically unable to do it and could stand and watch the fitter do the job).
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Did stand and watch him do it as i don't trust anybody, from ats to the dealer (been ripped off once to many times). He did a good job by the book, could't fault him.
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