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im going to do my clutch ,with engine in car ,any tips would be great ,and if you live near croydon,please come and help,ill supply fags and beer before and afterwards and i will also supply tea and any sedatives as well lol,cheers john,p.s. clutch cost 30 quid as i traded in a new 305 clutch in part exchange,making a great saving to spend on someone whos going to help (lmao).
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also do i have to take out the driveshaft to replace my clutch
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I would recommend axle stands, trolley jack if possible also.
Need to strip out quite a bit of stuff that is on top of the gearbox, probably battery, bits and pieces so you can see the top of the gearbox and bolts that attach it to the engine.
Support the car quite high up on axle stands, probably best place behind the front wheels on the chassis legs.
You will have to support the engine also as the gearbox mounting near the battery will need to be undone, this will cause the whole engine and box to start to tilt downwards, hence the need to support the engine under the sump on a nice stout piece of wood, possibly on top of a spare axle stand due to the height required. Normally you will have to take the driveshafts out, they will need pulling towards the outside of the car to disconnect from the gearbox, not sure how they fasten onto the inner point on Peugeots, if it's a circlip then you need to pull the shafts outwards, usually by disconnecting the bottom suspension joint on the struts so the driveshaft can be pulled out. The circlip is a snap fit into the differential and they can be persuaded to disconnect with a pry bar. If it's bolts then they might just unbolt and drop down by themselves. Don't forget to take off the gearshift connection, drain any gearbox oil (sometimes comes out itself when you take out the driveshafts) and unplug reverse switch wire plug. Make sure the engine is properly supported, then undo the bolts holding the box to the engine, you need to support the gearbox (best using a trolley jack) and gently persuade it to part company whilst lowering it to the ground. Watch out, they can be heavy and difficult things that drop on fingers etc. Once removed you will notice the clutch assembly bolted to the flywheel in all it's glory. A series of small bolts holds it all to the flywheel, these can be difficult to undo unless you jam the flywheel to stop it rotating by a spanner or screwdriver in the ring gear round the circumference. Strip down and replace, watching you put the bits back the right way round, pressure plate, friction plate etc. Also make sure each piece of the sandwich is centralised, the hole in the middle receives the input shaft from the gearbox and if any of the clutch parts are not centralised perfectly you will struggle lifting and making the gearbox go back onto the engine via the splined shaft.
Looking inside the gearbox housing you will notice the clutch release bearing on the output shaft, this bit presses against the clutch pressure plate each time you change gear, it's often best to replace this whilst you can to save having to do all the work again later. If it's worn it makes a rattling noise.
It's generally like that, I would recommend a workshop manual session first to get familiar with the job. Make sure the car is supported safely and the engine also, don't want it causing a nasty accident as the gearbox is disconnected and drops onto a tender part.
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wow many thanks for this ,must have took you ages to type in,many thanks,u answered exactly what i was after ,thanks again dude,owe ya one,respect johnny.
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how do i get the bearing and fork to match up on puegeot 405 td 93 plate,got the gear box on but just cant seem to marry the 2 together,help,swearbox is gettin full
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I'm sorry, I don't know - never had the 'luxury' of doing one of these....
I know it's a bit of a weird 'push-me, pull-me' clutch release setup....
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
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Its like trying to fit a gum shield in a mouth with your eyes closed.
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French innovation at it's best, in other words.
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
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Sorry am I missing something here.clutch release bearing should slide on primary shaft/input shaft with release fork being inserted as bearing is put on shaft.do you mean gearbox wont line up on boltholes or clutch wont work.?
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Have you put the new clutch together on the flywheel and are ready to mate the gearbox back onto the engine?
If you are offering the gearbox up to the engine and it doesn't seem to want to go on the last few inches it can be frustrating holding the weight and pushing with your feet!
Last time I did this it was a problem with the clutch friction plate and pressure plate not being properly centred on the flywheel, like I said before you need to make sure they are dead centred, if you look in the hole where the input shaft on the gearbox goes it should be a straight hole without anything out of line. If it's not the case there is a tool they sell called a clutch alignement tool for the job, but you can do it by judging it yourself. The normal procedure is to put this alignment rod in through the sandwich pieces of the clutch whilst you tighten the bolts around the circumference. If is's perfectly aligned then smear the splined input shaft with a bit of coppergrease, and offer the gearbox up, it should pop on neatly and you can get some of the bolts started that hold it on.
Can't thing the problem your'e having is anything else, - make sure the release bearing is fitted properly and not stopping the box from going onto the engine somehow.
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acanthus.it hasnt been made clear what he is doing ie possible replacement of box with another box.would suggest unless you know wait untill you get further info.you cannot in any way say what is going wrong untill you hear what he has to say.not having a go but wait for response.unless you know different.?
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If the problem is the box refuses to slide into position it's sometimes necessary to get a mate to keep turning the engine slightly as you rock the box into position. Don't let go until it's fully in position or you can bend the output shaft.
From what i can remember of the job the clutch release bearing is attached to the release arm with spring steel clips so fitting should be quite straightforward..only thing to remember is to put copper grease on the output shaft and release arm contact points as the clutch does tend to get heavy on these.
best of luck
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All he's doing is replacing the clutch, not the gearbox.
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groups.msn.com/honestjohn - Pictures say a thousand words.....
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hello people,got gearbox on,just having trouble with the bearing(which is attached to the clutch plate and the clutch release fork marrying up,theres two holes on the bearing which the clutch release fork sits in ,but it wont,does this just snap in place ,when the gearbox is fully on,or does it not work like that,im on all morning if i havent made myself clear,tar boys
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Try pulling/pushing the clutch release arm in the opposite direction to which it normally operates. The bearing should click into place.
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fits in like a chock to stop the bearing moving,is this rite,i was thinking it sat in there rather like a jigsaw piece
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Clutch release bearing causing probs.are you sure correct units installed.it should snap in place as you install it before g/box put back on.if it cannot be.it will be a prob usually due to the wrong unit.correct me if wrong?
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???i think its right,clutch with plate with bearing attached,sound right for a 405 td 93 plate no aircon
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I may be totally wrong.and appologise if so.are you certain the release bearing has been put on right way round.release bearing is not attached to the pressure plate.it only opperates the clutch from the release lever.if it is poss to put it on wrong way round may be reason.I cannot see any other reason as box went on ok.I hope I am wrong again appologise if wrong just a poss.?
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These engines use a pull type clutch, and the release bearing is fixed to the pressure plate. You have to hook the fingers of the release arm behind the release bearing as you slide the box back on (nice and easy huh?). Position the release bearing so that the lugs are at the front (it may have HAUT stamped on it to indicate which side shoule be up). Next position the release fork (by turning it) so that the fingers will go past the release bearing, but no so far round that it will baulk on the pressure plate - you may need to remove the release arm from the top of the pivot shaft to achieve this. Now, slide the box back on to the engine. If you've got everything in the right place, the fork should contact the pressure plate and be turned around (clockwise viewed from above) as you slide the box home, leaving it behind the release bearing. If you get it too far clockwise to start with it will foul the bearing, too far anticlockwise and it will foul the pressure plate and stop you getting the box back on. Refit the release arm, and then give it a pull - you should be able to just pull it, indicating that the clutch is operating - if it is very loose you have not got it right and the box needs to come off again.....
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RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
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many thanxs richardW for your help,thats exactley what i was after
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in a pug 405 td ,i have been told this comes with bearing attached to clutch,clutch i have has the bearing attached
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How did you get on?
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not happy as clutch cable is well loose and the release forks that holds the clutch cable isnt sitting rite ,due to all this banging around,had enuff,weird clutch bearing set up.
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