Does anybody know if I can replace a 1995 1000cc FIRE cylinder head with one from a 1988 model? What mods would be needed to accommodate it? And if so what new head bolts should I get - for the age of the block (95) or the head (88)?
Finally, the 95 car has a warning light on the instrument panel which is not in the book or the Haynes manual. It looks a bit like a petrol pump nosel with a spray coming out of it - it occasionally comes on whilst driving but does not seem to be a low fuel light?
Thanks in advance for any advice you can give.
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The warning light is the Engine management warning light. As long as it goes out fairly rapidly dont worry too much but if it comes on and stays on get the fault codes read asap. Cant see a problem swapping heads as long as the engine codes are the same, you use the manifolds and sensors from your existing head but check carefully, very carefully that all the holes etc are the same. Just out interest why are you changing it?
Bolts for the age of the block btw.
Andrew
Simplicate and add lightness!!
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I'm thinking of changing the head because of a noisey tappet shim and some loss of power due to possible valve trouble. I got the car in this condition and my daughter has run it for 6 months but it seems to be gradually getting more sluggish. I have spares from a broken Panda (which was in full running order) and to keep the car mobile, swapping the head seems the quickest solution; then I can refurbish the old one at my leisure.
Is the engine code on the vehicle ID plate? And what does btw stand for?
Many thanks for your help.
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btw = by the way
Fiat engine code? I'm sure they're on the VIN plate.
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I think the earlier (pre-injection) FIRE engines were higher compression, something like 9.5 to one rather than 9.0
That may give you an issue with pinking as the timing is determined by crankshaft sensors on the later "wasted spark" ignition system, and is not intended to be adjusted AFAIK:
you may need to run it on something like "Optimax"...
Before pulling it to bits it might be worth doing a compression test to see if there is an issue there or not.
(done hot, with all the plugs out, and the throttle wide open)
Poor running, and getting worse, could well be short runs with poor/low detergent fuel:
try a big dose of injector cleaner, and the proverbial "Italian tune up"
Your noisey "shim" might just be the injector complaining(!)
I am not a Mechanic: All the above in good faith, but may not be the answer for you.
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Hi all,
Thanks for the info. I've checked out the shim clearances on the existing head and 6 out of 8 are a mile out (.050 vs .030 clearance for example), whereas the spare head is all correct to the book. I plan to lift the head tomorrow but if anyone else has any further words of advice etc, eg the fuel pump take-off on the older 'good' head is not applicable to the fuel injection car, and it looks like the mounting simply has a bracket bolted over it on the later version (by design) - is this so?
Like many, I have more theoretical nous than practical experience.....but there's only one way to learn and it's good spending time with my teenage son who's doing the job with me.
At worst, I will attempt to refurbish the existing head.
Will let you know the outcome!!!
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I can confirm that the early injection "FIRE" engines have a blanking plate over the hole where the mechanical fuel pump sits on the carbed versions.
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Thanks - I've now got the head off and there's 3 valves very light brown, 2 very oily and only 3 (which correlate to the correct shim clearances) that look OK, ie just black. I have tried to release the valves for overhaul but cannot get them out. The camshaft lobes are marked and stained.
Compressing the springs does not seem to release the 2 semi-circular 'fixings' which lock the valve shaft in place. Is this a special tool job and if so, do I need to get the head professionally refurbed?
It looks like I have a good camshaft (clean lobes) and set of valves, followers and shims from the old head which could be assembled in the newer one, leaving me with one good head (and the correct compression ratio for the age of the car)...but not if I cannot get the old valves out! Is there anything else worth trying? Thanks in anticipation.
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"Porter" suggests that the split collets (the 2 semi-circular 'fixings') should remove when the valve spring is compressed sufficiently.
There is no mention of difficulty with this step, other than loosing the collets.
Further comments are:
keep valves in the correct order by placing them through (numbered) holes in a cardboard box... could be fun if you're mixing and matching.
if the valves don't slide out of their guides cleanly because of carbon build up or burring where the collets fit - it can -usually- be cleaned up with wet and dry. If you don't you may score the inside of the guide.
the valve seats in "unleaded" engines are so hard that valve grinding paste will not make much impression on them.
it can be tricky to re-fit the collets - dab of grease on the collet , and a screwdriver and "stick" it to the valve stem with the grease.
Valve clearances are shown as
0.3mm inlet
0.4mm exhaust
both plus or minus 0.05mm
Note this information is transcribed with best accuracy, and in good faith.
Regards
John H
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