Fiesta 1.1. No oil level showing on the dipstick and the sump pan covered in oil. Turns out to be a pinprick hole half way up the side facing forwards. Anybody repaired something like this without having to take the sump off ? Appreciate any time saving solutions.
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I have silver soldered a patch onto a sump very successfully but you have to get it spotlessly clean. Brazing would be the same. I would insect the very carefully for other signs or corrosion particularly under bubbley paint It could be it is riddled with potential leaks and you need a new one. Regards Peter
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Hmm, I wouldn't want to go near a sump on a car with anything hot (eg oxy torch / mig welder) - would be very easy to start a fire on the inside! It shouldn't take too long to get it off, but you will probably find it is very thin all over if it has rusted through, and a new one is required anyway. ISTR one car is particularly prone to this, and the Fiesta seems to ring a bell - might be wrong though!
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RichardW
Is it illogical? It must be Citroen....
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The older fiestas certainly are prone to this. We have had two in the past and both have needed new sumps around the 5-7 year mark. About 80 odd quid i think.
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My old 1.1 Fiesta had the same problem, and with rust bubbles everywhere it was better to replace it.
When the new one was on,I gave it a healthy coat of Hammerite type of 'metal' paint which held off the rusting a lot longer!
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A good temporary repair:
well masticated chewing gum.. oushed through hole so it projects into sump.
Leave to harden.
Go to scrapyard for replacement asap
madf
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Had the self same problem on a Fiesta under the crankshaft pully and it was around the £80 mark for a new one.
Recently had a Sierra with some holes in the sump. Took it off, gave it a good clean inside and out and brazed patches on. Coat of Smoothrite and as good as new!
Would definately not weld or braze in situ!!!!!!
Fullchat
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There may be a simple solution to this. If the sump is not severely rusty, you can clean off the area where the hole is and simply screw in a reasonalbe sized self tapping screw. Before fully screwing in, apply a generous amount of silicone RTV. Fully tighten and let dry for 24 hrs. Shouldn't leak after that.
A cheap but effective repair.
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These are the views of Robin the Technician with 35 years in the trade. I fix, therefore I am...
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A variation on the chewing gum suggestion already made is epoxy putty - the type that looks like two strips of platicine which you tear off and mix together. Sets rock hard in an hour or so. Most hardware stores sell it.
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Thanks for all the advice. I did consider using a self-tapping screw but concluded the area around the pin hole was probably rather thin to hold it. So I cleaned the area with an angle grinder to get to some bare metal and applied Plastic Padding (chemical metal)ensuring that some went into the pin hole. It wont stick on the inside of the sump but should help to anchor the repair and its well bonded on the clean metal outside. Doesnt leak anymore but I discovered another area weeping oil so I think the long term answer (if it passes the next MOT) is a new sump.
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