The drivers side door lock on my 96 fiesta has developed an annoying problem. It'll lock, but won't unlock. My 95 Mondeo had exactly the same problem not long back so I'm thinking this must be quite common with Ford door locks. My red key doesn't work either. I've tried squirting a bit of WD40 in but no luck. Any ideas or is it a replacement job ?
SLT to bring it in line with drop down menu system
I had a very similar fault on my wife's 1990 Fiesta and she couldn't get in but could lock the door.
The problem was that the plastic tube in which the operating cable from the key lock to the "actual lock" ie the one that holds the door shut had cracked allowing it to flex so that turning the key failed to operate the actual lock
Dead cheap to fix and only a few minutes work.
Hope this helps
Ford Fiesta door lock problems -
Andrew Moorey (Tune-Up)
Seem to get a few of these and really the only lasting cure I have found is to replace the latch assembly and the internal locking cable as a unit.The mechanism inside the latch is made of flimsy materials and wears to the point where there isnt enough movement on the keylock to get the lock to undo. If you peer through the window at the inside door handle while turning the key you will see that the locking lever doesnt quite move enough to let it unlatch. Doesnt take long and because its a henry the bits are usually on the shelf and not expensive.
I've had this problem with my Sierra Estate.I sidestepped messing about with the lock by installing a remote locking interface,£50 from Maplins,easily fitted in an afternoon.Might seem a bit pricey but I saw it as a good excuse....
My wife tried getting into her car today, but the lock has stuck, i eventually opened it by entering via the passenger door to unlock it, but something seems to be stuck, the door won't even open via the outside door handle when it's unlocked, after i took the door liner off, i still cant get to the lock as it's encased inside a metal case, have you any ideas at all how i can get to it to sort it out at all, as i need to get it MOT'd etc and don't really fancy getting ripped off by a garage
its a 1994 5 door Mistral,
Remove the door inner trim of the Fiesta, you can do this when the door is still shut. The lock barrel can become worn but generally the problem is a broken spring within the latch assembly itself (not the lock barrel). A short actuating rod connects the barrel with the latch assembly, turning the key should result in this rod trying to move. The problem is a small stud within the latch assembly which moves within a shaped slot on a cam assembly. If the spring breaks the stud is held within the slot and the cam cannot move and hence open the door latch. If you reach inside the door and jiggle the actuating rod from the lock barrel by hand whilst gently pulling on the interior door handle the latch assembly will open nine times out of ten. If it doesnt you can always break off the plastic cover of the latch assembly and then you can see the cam and the slot. Whilst this method allows you to open the door, the only solution is to replace the latch assembly. (About £27). Be sure to specify whether the latch assembly is central locking or not but note that it is NOT neceassry to renew the actuating solenoid as well.
Hi , simple answer if you look down the front edge of the black metal covering there should be a beed of black sealer simply cut the sealer with a knife, then its just undoing the screw just above the catch on the back edge of the door and undoing the screw in th bottem right of the door were the inner trim covers. then just give it a tug and it should come off hope this helps you . nic
delayed reply by about 4 years i know but this is for anyone who has an issue with a mk4 fiesta central locking system. my fiesta once developed the problem of not being able to open the driver side door from the inside or outside. i had to take the door card off which was a nightmare broke it in the process (which you can go to a local scrappy and pick one up for about £5). i then managed to locate a latch which is at the very bottom of the assembly box (usually white plastic) with my thumb, hence the door was open. i then took off the window runner mounting, which you have to take off to be able to take the assembly box out of the door, and took out the screws that held the lock in place, took it into my house opened it up and found the spring inside had broke in half, which brings the locking mechanism across to you can open it, otherwise it just gets stuck, i had no other spare spring so i made one out of the spring that had broke, voila, it works a treat. drama of a job but i know what to do for next time, just shedding some light for anyone with same problem
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Mine has the problem where its locked all the time, I can't open it from the outside, I can open it from the inside but as soon as I close it locks itself again. The inside handle is always in the lock position.
I realise I have to take the dreaded door card off but what do I do once I have done that?
Not clear whether we are talking mk3 or mk4 fiesta's, but on a Mark4 you have remove shield / window guide and bolts holding latch to door. It is clearly explained in a haynes manual. If the cable is running freely, it is likely to be a broken spring or something else in the latch (as outlined in previous posts). The position of the cable in the latch is critical and you have to make sure the notch? is aligned to a spot on the latch. Anyway it is an easish job ( 1 hour) if you have a new latch (£30 - £45) and haynes manual. Once the latch is off, you can open it up and check for correct operation. I've replaced a mk 4 latch but not a mk 3, although have manuals for both.
Thanks I am slightly nervious about doing this in case I accidently force the door shut. I suppose the trick is to make sure I leave the door card off when I close it for the first time.I am also slightly nervious that I will brake the latch completly meaning the door won't latch into place.
I still need to get a Haynes. It sounds like this job could cost me £60 in a garage :( I think I will leave it for a couple of months otherwise all my money is going on the car. I will buy a Haynes next month. This month the only job I am doing on the car is changing the air filter, which ironicaly is not the easiest jobs on a mk4 1.3
If you follow the step by step instructions, the only thing that needs to be forced slightly is the sealant that partially holds the lock cover / window guide to the door.
Getting this lock cover out from the door needs small hands and some wiggling.
I could explain the procedure but it would go into a couple of pages.
In a garage it will be the cost of the part plus possibly 1 - 1.5 hours labour say £60 - £120 in total. Also don't go too hard on the door card, otherwise you may break some of the plastic securing pegs.
The latch comes out as one complete unit with mechanism and cable, you can then take it to a work bench, pop cover off and then check mechanism / cable routing. Safest option is that if it doesn't work off the car after oiling, then best to get a new one, rather than take the unit apart (Springs, ratchets, cogs etc, many plastic).
Have just had this problem on my wife's 96 mk4 1.2 zetec ghia fiesta. (Drivers door)
She could lock the doors but double locking would result in having to enter via the boot!
The central locking system would also just cycle - lock / unlock / lock etc.
(There was also a pronounced click from the faulty door as the latch didnt release properly)
Did the tests on the central locking system (www.mirez.co.uk/AlarmRoutines.htm )
and proved all the electrics were ok.
Took the door card off and removed the latch (instructions above are spot on - many thanks!!)
When cleaning the latch - the little spring (3mm in diameter about 20 mm long with a hook at each end) fell out.
This spring fits on a small round pin formed at the top of the white plastic moulding (mine still had the wire loop attached). The other end fits in a small square notch in the lower of the two actuating arms (These are connected to the key lock and the door handle). This spring ensures the lever is always returned to the up position
One of the hooks had broken off so I stretched it out and made a new hook put it back and reassembled.
(This assembly also houses the door ajar switch which I had to replace as it was about to fail! (£15 from Ford main dealer)
Job took 1 hour (20 mins of which was removing the door card!!) and locking worked fine.
Good idea to clean crude off everything while its apart and lube afterwards.
Couldn't find anything on the web re door card removal - so for those who need to know.
There are four screws you need to remove.
1) In the door mirror cover - it's hidden under a small circle of plastic in front of the adjuster. Remove this cover with a small sharp knife
2) In the door release handle / tweeter trim (remove round plastic cover with a small flat blade screwdriver).
3) In the door handle recess - (remove round plastic cover with a small flat blade screwdriver).
4) on the edge of the door card above the latch (This has a clip-on cover - keep them together as the cover doesn't fit the other screws).
To remove the rubber mirror adjuster turn 1/4 turn clockwise (or anticlock-wise??) and pull gently. lift the cover plate away from the door. (this allows the door card to lift upwards.
GENTLY!!!!! pull / easy the door card away from the door to release the push in pins from the holes in the door frame. then push the doorcard upwards
Disconnect the power window switches if fitted (remember which goes in which connector!)
Put door card safe.
You now have a silver/grey plastic cover in the way - use a sharp knife to cut through the sealant holding this in place(not the plastic). Cut from the door release handle to the back of the door and then all the way down to the bottom of the door. (The door handle support is riveted on over the plastic so you can't take it all off). Tape out of the way using masking tape.
Sealent is sticky enough to just put the cover back in place when you have finished.
Rest of the job is the reverse of the above.
i had exactly the same problem and it was a broken spring in the lock mechanism. New lock mechanism problem solved. Now however the passenger door has to decided to lock itself shut. When i try to open the outside handle it sticks up, the barrel wont turn to the locking position but will to the open position but still doesnt work, the inside handle doesnt do sod all, ive tried pulling on the cable and i cant get my hand in to manipulate the the levers. how can i open it? what else can i try?