Taken from thread \"Pierburg Carb\"
www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=8799
the engine runs fine. After covering a couple of miles, it will start to misfire, gradually getting worse until it cuts out. After a couple of minutes, the engine will start again and run for maybe 2 to 20 minutes before cutting out again
Exactly the same problem here,on a Golf Driver,G reg,1.6,but with one difference,mine ONLY does it in cold or wet weather,its fine in the summer,any ideas?I`m about to start checking the stuff in Andrew Moorey`s very helpfull piece on carb icing,(23 nov,02).
Also,I`ve recently noticed that the vacuum reservoir has no pipes whatsoever coming to or from it..could this affect the cars performance??
|
Cold and wet weather are the perfect conditions for carb Icing. There should be a vacuum hose coming off the servo pipe and running along the cam cover to a point midway along the engine. At that point a tee piece splits this pipe, one going to the choke pull down unit on the carb, the other to the green sphere.
Good luck
Andrew
Simplicate and add lightness!!
|
|
There should be a vacuum controlled flap in the air intake,at the air filter,with a small bore pipe connected from this to the carb.This moves the flap to take hot air from the exhaust manifold,or cold from outside,according to temp.If the vacuum is lost,or the hot air pipe is missing,all VW's suffer badly from carb icing.
|
|
|
|
sounds exactly like carb icing, the engine has two systems to prevent this and both need to be working
a heater on the front of the carb should have a constant 12v at its connector, also check the earth strap from the carb to the rocker cover
an air flap in the air intake, suck on the vac pipe and check you can hear the flap moving, probably needs some oil and might need some forcing
the choke pull down unit has two connections: the lower one connects to a port near the base of the carb the upper connects to a t-piece, the t-piece then connects to the vac reservoir and the brake servo pipe (via a one-way valve)
|
|
|
|
The Pierburg 2E2 carb on my Golf Driver 1.6,G reg,is still showing signs of icing.I checked the stuff mentioned on here a while back,ie,hot air intake shroud,flap in airfilter,all seemed ok.When I sucked the vacuum pipe,the flap opens ,closes etc.Hot air intake pipe had a small hole in it,fixed that,a couple of the vacuum pipes seemed blocked,replaced them.Its still doing it!!Aggh.I got 60 miles down the motorway,and had had to pull onto hard shoulder twice due to icing symptoms.Whats the next thing to check?the electrical side of carb?how exactly do I do this?Any help much appreciated.
|
Hi Tony,
Good that you have checked the intake control flap moves when you suck on the vacuum pipe, but WHICH vac pipe ? If you have sucked on the one that leads directly to the flap control diaphragm you have proved that IT is OK, but is it getting a vacuum supply from the temperature switch sited on the side of the carb cover ? Simply, this switch should have a permanent vac supply from the base of the carb, and transmit said vac to the flap diaphragm when the intake temp is low. So, test for vac to switch, and on from switch when cold. If switch is suspected try car with flap diaphragm connected directly to source at base of carb - better to have permanant hot air than permanant cold.
On another tack, you could have a basic fuel supply problem. Blocked filter, blocked pipes, blocked tank outlet, or intermittent pump fault all possible.
Regards, Adam
Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble.
|
|
|
|
I think icing up is made worse if the air filter is due for renewal. The heat within the air helps keep the carb warm and reduce the risk of icing up. If the carb is struggling to breath in sufficient air, not only will this tend to richen the mixture but it will also mean the carb runs cooler, and may lead to icing. If the filter is due for renewal just do it. If you think the filter is ok you could experiment by completely removing it and seeing if the symptoms disappear. If they do it could mean that the filter was clogged or that there was something else preventing a good flow of air into the carb, perhaps the filter lid had crushed the filter element or somesuch similar problem.
Hope this helps
|
Guys
This thread is dead on its carb icing it happened to me same symtoms took the car every where no one could mend it so I started an internet search and found the answer on this group
Take it from me it dosnt have to be freezing for a peirburgh carb to ice up and you MUST get hot air into the carb or it will stop the engine altogether it happened on countless occasions to me
all sort of DUFF info given about you dont need the air duct from the maniflod ect pink fluffy dice!
get as much hot air into that carb as possible during the winter months
THANKS AGAIN GUYS
|
|
Does this engine have the `hedgehog` thing that heats air entering the carb?
|
The Mk2 1.6CL does have a inlet manifold hedgehog plus an internal carb. electric heater.
|
|
|
|
I found the other day that my mk2 1.6cl vacuum controlled flat valve in the air intake was stuck in the full hot position causing fuel vaporizing problems at tickover in lenghty traffic jams. WD40 cured that but the valve now did not move from it's default position of fully open. A shot of compressed air through the temp. sensor fixed that. All now works as it should and the car will now tickover in traffic jams.
|
|
|
![2021 Nissan Qashqai 1.3 DiG-T 160 [157] Acenta Premium 5dr DCT](http://images.honestjohn.co.uk/imagecache/url/crop/90x60/https/assets.heycar.co.uk/t_default-export/f_auto/application_assets/vehicles/pictures/da990225dbcac5ecfadc85d8ad4e2654/690936625217cd1efba5c9cdd4bc42f1.jpg)
