I had a After 5 min of start stop driving and 3~5 min of steady 50mph when accelerating up to 70mph on the motorway my Vectra gave a bit of a cough, lost some power for 10-20 seconds, Engine management light came on, engine power came back ok, drove to next exit approx 2 miles with light still on but car driving normally. Turned engine off, had a look under the bonnet, where all looked ok, all belts intact levels fine no smells or leaks. Started car again, no warning light and it drove fine for the next 5 motorway miles to work.
Using the ever so technical paperclip I found that the ECU has stored a crank sensor error code (0335) however in my list of error codes acquired from www.topbuzz1.carenthusiasts.co.uk/info/fault_codesm there is another error code called Camshaft sensor (0340) which I do NOT have.
I guess I am concerned that the sensor detected a fault as opposed to the sensor becoming faulty itself, as such I am in no immediate rush to replace the sensor. So what would cause the crack sensor to log a fault (also bearing in mind the cough symptom) Would the timing belt jumping a tooth cause it?? and if so would the car appear to continue to run normally with the belt out ? Is this an early indicator that my tensioner pulley is on the way out? (Timing belt etc replaced ~25k miles ago.) Or something completely different??
Car is a 98R Vectra GLS 1.8 16v Ecotec(with Aircon)
I would guess from your symptoms that crank sensor is faulty.(continual problem with vectras).It does what it says,senses crank position,not cambelt.Your car def has cam sensor which sits between two cam drive cogs.
I have not had the problem since, I was changing the oil & filter at the weekend and had a good look for the Crank sensor. I could not find it, so I will pay somebody else to sort it out. On a side note I had a read at an article on Vectra diagnosis in Car Mechanics monthly or whatever they call it. It talks through the ISCV issue (which coincedntly I cleaned and checked for the modified x marked part only 2 months ago) The issue with the Cam and crank sensor and an issue with the Valve stems gunking up. I have been running the car on Vx fully synthetic changed every 5k miles since I got it so did not think this would be an issue, but on the advice of the article I used a double dose of Redex in the fuel and Wynns oil flush treatment when doing the oil change and the car has perked up quite a lot. Seems to have got rid of the annoying hesitation at 3000 -3200 rpm. Will reserve final judgement until I have run a couple of tanks of fuel through the car.
So I cured a problem I didn't know I had, the Crank Sensor issue hasn't reared it's head again and if it does I now know it's something I couldn't be bothered to fix myself, so off it will go to the local Mechanic :o)
Code: Item: Fault:
0100 Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor n/a
0105 Intake manifold pressure sensor n/a
0110 Intake Air Temperature Sesnor (ATS) n/a
0115 Intake Coolant Temperature Sesnor (CTS) n/a
0120 Throttle Potentiometer Sensor (TPS) n/a
0130 Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen (HEGO) sensor n/a
0135 Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen (HEGO) sensor heater n/a
0150 Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen (HEGO) sensor n/a
0173 Heated Exhaust Gas Oxygen (HEGO) sensor n/a
0201 Injector valve 1 n/a
0202 Injector valve 2 n/a
0203 Injector valve 3 n/a
0204 Injector valve 4 n/a
0205 Injector valve 5 n/a
0206 Injector valve 6 n/a
0230 Fuel pump n/a
0325 Knock sensor n/a
0330 Knock sensor 2 n/a
0335 Crank sensor n/a
0340 Camshaft sensor n/a
0351 Ignition coil 1 and 4 n/a
0352 Ignition coil 2 and 3 n/a
0400 Exhaust gas circulation valve n/a
0403 Exhaust Gas Re-circulation (EGR) valve n/a
0410 Secondary air pump relay n/a
0412 Secondary solenoid valve n/a
0433 Tank vent valve n/a
0500 Idle speed stepper motor/idle air regulator n/a
0560 Battery n/a
1110 Switch over valve solenoid n/a
1112 Switch over valve 1 n/a
1113 Switch over valve 2 n/a
1120 Throttle body malfunction n/a
1229 Power supply relay n/a
1231 Fuel pump relay n/a
1320 Knock control cylinder 1 n/a
1327 Knock control cylinder 2 n/a
1328 Knock control cylinder 3 n/a
1329 Knock control cylinder 4 n/a
1405 Exhaust Gas Re-circulation (EGR) valve n/a
1410 Secondary air pump relay n/a
1411 Secondary air pump n/a
1501 Immobiliser control unit n/a
1502 Immobiliser control unit n/a
1503 Immobiliser control unit n/a
1530 Air flow relay n/a
1600 Internal control module n/a
1601 Engine Control Unit (ECU) too hot n/a
1602 Knock control module n/a
1604 Knock control unit n/a
1605 Knock control unit n/a
1606 Knock control unit n/a
1640 Knock control unit or quad drive module n/a
1690 MIL/Engine fail (malfunction indicator lamp) n/a
1740 Torque control unit
If your ecu has given that code that is the prob.as a matter of info a one tooth slip on cambelt wont harm your engine but if that has happened get it checked out.the ecu only tells you if there is a problem.whether you have the correct code is another but I would heed it
Vectra Crank sensor error -
Andrew Moorey (Tune-Up)
Crank sensor failure is very common. Southern Carbs (0208 540 2723) are about the cheapest around. It is a fiddle to fit as it hides behind the PAS pump and the cable has to pass between the pump and block. Dont be tempted to run the cable by the exhaust.
Had a similar sounding issue with mine soon after I bought it.
The rev counter was bouncing and the engine died a few times with the EMS light coming on. Sometimes it would lose power, then recover. Once it died whilst I was scooting down the M4 at about 75 ! Not funny.
Took to the local vauxhall dealer, diagnosed as faulty Lambda sensor that sense the crankshaft position. It was replaced and the garage gleefully handed it back - cost £125.
That was not the issue - the problem persisted. Eventually they took it back road tested it but found no issue. Late in the afternoon a mechanic took it out and it failed. Stalled at a junction. Got it back.....had a play, replaced the Idle Air Intake Valve. Spot on.....no problems since. That was six months ago at least - only reason it stalls now is my driving.
The Camshaft sensor was red herring. Bonus for me - I didnt pay the £180 bill to replace the IAIV.
Vectra Crank sensor error -
Andrew Moorey (Tune-Up)
Sorry, I am now confused, the lambda sensor is in the exhaust and nothing to do with the crankshaft. Your symptoms are correct for a crankshaft sensor which as they did not replace it left the original problem in place. Faults with the idle speed control valve wont affect the revcounter, crank sensor failure will. I think possibly you have been misled slightly but as the problem is solved- what matter!! £125 for a Lambda or Crank sensor from a main agent is about right so you havent been ripped off! And are they really charging £180 for an ISC valve- must put my prices up!!!!
I have got vectra 1.8lt 16v 1998 petrol engine. I have recently had a problem with ecu light comes up while I am driving. and when I switch off the ignition and turn it on again it goes and drives allright. I took the garage and they plug it in the computer. I had 3 fault codes come out.
P0335 Crankshaft sensor
P0335 Crankshaft Sensor incorrect signal
P0351 ignition coil 1 and 4 high voltage
They said its most probably Crankshaft sensor so I bought New sensor and just get fitted by somebody I know. Which it was much cheaper than what I quoted by garage. But It didnt solved the problem. I still get ecu engine electronics immobiliser light comes on dashboard Occasionally. Could it be they didnt clear the codes.
Could you help me please? I dont know anything about using paper clip for finding codes. If anyone could explain to me how it is actually done? I dont want to pay all the time £35 for plug it in computer.
And if its not crank shaft sensor what could it be? Any detailed solving problem explanation will be very much appreciated and I will try to do it myself if I could..E mail is firstname.lastname@example.org
And Could it be dirty fuel injector because sometimes car is droping power while driving. Looks like it will stall but it doesnt happen yet.
Vectra Crank Cam Sensor 1996 1.8 LS Fault -
OK, so I had this problem too, after reading various threads from around the web I was lead to belive varying things such as crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, air mass meter, throttle body or throttle control sensor.
Annoyingly after replacing the Cam sensor and Air mass sensor I find it is neither.
Just in case someone else happens upon this thread at a later date I recommend "if like me your not keen on spending money"
1. take the air mass sensor off, clean the small platinum pins very carefully, I used 2 cotton buds sticky taped together with some nail varnish remover as carb cleaner was not cleaning it properly due to not being able to get through the mesh grill properly.
2. check your air pipes ensure they are all tight and sealed, ensure there is no hissing noise, its very slight and you can barely hear it.
On the back of the throttle body there is a pipe fits to the side of it from the right hand side, inspect the pipe clean if needs be and ensure this is on properly, this was my fault that dam pipe had a very minor split in it and the car ran like a bang of hammers on tick over, yet drove fine with the odd jerk in normal driving, please do look at these things before you go spending £100 on new parts.