One of my rear passenger doors has suddenly stopped cooperating with the central locking system. It remains locked, or unlocked, when I unlock or lock the other doors.
I only have manual key-operated central locking, not the new-fangled \'zap as you\'re walking towards the car\' thing.
Is there anything simple that I could do to solve this? I am not going to any garage/mechanic about it so soon after having the brake and reverse switches replaced.
Thanks for any suggestions.
HF
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Depends on the make of car....
My Volvo T6 had this problem on all doors but not at the same time. I solved this by squirting a silicon based product (eg dash cleaner (Armorall sp?)) This seems to free the lock mechanism as on mine the knob was getting stuck on the door surround.
After a while the door motor burnt out because the travel for the knob wasn't clear.
Try the silicon and see if that helps. (you could also try WD40)
Pete
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Thanks Pete. Mine's an Astra 1.7D. I have WD40 here so I'll give that a try first, and if not I'll get some silicon.
I'll come back with results.
Cheers
HF
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Does the button on the door pop up/down when you open the car? Can you move it manually and/or open the door from the inside? Are you sure the door isn't just stuck shut rather than being locked? One of the rear doors on P's Skoda was stuck yesterday - it took quite a bit of effort to open it? Is it a door you don't use very often? I'd check all these things before doing too much else.
BTW did you get my e.mail re our bbq Weds. ?
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Had the same problem on my car.
You'll have to get the Haynes manual out, get the door card off inside the car, and use WD40 to free whatever part of the locking mechanism is sticking, or manually insert whatever has come loose.
Not a big job.
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IIRC HF doesn't have a Haynes manual. Quick trip roung the corner to Halfords ???
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If it's doing it intermitantly, then it sounds like a broken wire between the "B" post and rear door. Not uncommon for wires to break, as over a period of years of the rear door opening and closing weakens the wire(s) until it/they break. Try positioning the rear door in different open positions and see if the door unlocks/locks everytime when you activate the central locking. If you then move the rear door and the c/l stops working, then a broken wire is the culprit.
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Thanks for all replies.
I have tried WD40, which didn't seem to make any difference.
V is right, I don't have a Haynes manual, and I think I should probably invest in one. However, I did manage to work out how to semi remove the door card (not completely because I couldn't see a way of doing that without breaking the window winder), but it was enough for me to prise the card away to see inside. I was unable, however, to see any wires, all I found linkied to the lock button was a long thin piece of metal which went inside the door itself.
I have tried unlocking/locking with the door in different open positions, and it would not unlock/lock at all, in any position.
I gave up, and put the card back on, and now it is working perfectly.
I know it will be only temporary, and that I will need to get a Haynes and sort it out properly, but something of the above must have made some sort of a difference. So thanks to all of you!
I'd like to add that I did this totally alone and am rather proud of it. I will be back once it happens again, or at least when I have properly tried all suggestions, if I cannot cure the problem.
Thanks
HF
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I did manage to work out how to semi remove the door card (not completely because I couldn't see a way of doing that without breaking the window winder)
There is a hidden spring clip that holds it on. Bit difficult to explain, but if you ever do get a Haynes manual, it explains how to remove it - with pictures included as well ;o)
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Thanks D - I will have to get the Haynes manual, as the problem fixing was very short-lived. Very short-lived indeed! ;)
This does have me gripped though, because I would love to sort it out with no physical help at all, if I can, just with advice from the BR.
Will come back when I have tried and failed everything ;))
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If its anything like my old cavalier then there is a little motor in a box in the door. It was supposed to push/pull the lock when energised. It was about £50 for a replacement when mine stopped working so I drilled out the pins that held the box together and cleaned the commutator segments on the little motor - poppped it back together, [bolting the box where the pins were removed] and it gave me no further trouble.
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Thanks, Huw.
I think I still need to look at a Haynes manual even to find this motor box in the door! I think if I can find the box though, if that is the problem, then I might be able to do as you say.
Such a goldmine of information here. Again, thanks to all who have answered. I will check everything out as suggested here, and then, if need be, I'll be back (best Arnie voice there). Whatever happens I will post to confirm whether problem is or is not sorted.
Oh and as an aside, I was wondering if this could be linked in any way to the 'other' problem I had with my central locking a few months ago? Ever since then I have not used deadlock, only half-lock, but the mechanic I used the other day left it deadlocked - could this have any connection? Because this new thing only happened in the last couple of days.
Ta again to all,
HF
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You cant miss the box containing the motor- Its on the end of the wires.
I see no connection with the earlier problem but I do see a connection to the hot weather. My problem occured in high summer too and the heat seemed to have melted the glue holding the commutator segments onto the rotor.
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Thank you Huw. I have yet to locate the wires, but will try again tomorrow.
I agree also that it is likely to have been aggravated by the recent hot weather - I guess all sorts of thigs are expanding which wouldn't normally.
I will come back if I have any success or failure.
Thanks again
HF
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PS - there seems to be an awful lot of locking problems cropping up on this forum this week. *Is* there any way all these problems might be down to the extra heat?
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