I was thinking of using an engine flush when i next change my oil (97 306 xtdt) is there a problem with over filling if the oil is already up to the max on the dipstick? or will the small volume of flushing oil make no difference?
Yes, dipstick is what I'm thinking here, my friend.
To use engine flushing oil you drain all your old oil out. You then fill to the correct level with the flushing oil and drive for the requisite mileage, then drain it and fill with your normal oil to the correct level.
Are you sure you want to use flushing oil, and not some fancy additive?
The guy said "engine flush" not "flushing oil", Sean. You owe the gent an apology.
It is a sort of detergent solvent added to the oil just before the oil change, and the engine idled for 10-15 minutes. Can clear out quite a bit of crud, and not really necessary. If the engine is badly soiled it could release a lot of crud into the system all at once.
Better to do a normal oil change, and perhaps do it more frequently. Wynns and several others make them. In fact Wynns do different types for petrol and diesel engine
Perhaps best avoided, if like my Fiat the engine keeps a pint of oil in the cooler etc how ever long you leave it to drain.
OK then, so what about flushing the VW PD TDI engines? Is this best avoidedat all costs?...and is GTX Magnatec OK, or Magnatec GTD for diesels? (I don't have the latest variable service interval engine so don't need to get worried about SLX II !!!).
The Pd's really DO deliver at least their rated power outputs.
Put one on a rolling road and be TRULY impressed.
Dr Pietch wanted nobody looking at his work and giggling.
If you only get 150bhp from a TDi 150 I'll be sacked.
To deliver this, we had to push frontiers.
To do that, we required specialist oils.
You know exactly what your oil needs to be, don't you, my friend?
If you economise on that oil, you will suffer. Truthfully, you will regret it. Spend as much as you can, on the right oil. You know precisely what the dpec is, don't you? I went out of my way printing it in the handbooks. Deny it at your peril.
Think about 1 bar. 15psi. Think about 800 bar. 12000psi. Crackers pressures. Look at your efficiency, atomisation etc.
I was referring to the smaller bottles of engine flush (wynns etc) which crinkly dave mentioned. However, if you do not recommend using them sean, and consider them a waste of time/money, then i will heed your professional advice.
But you are quite right,I have been known to be a bit of a dipstick on more than one occasion.
No need to apologise Sean - I have been called worse things than a dipstick in the past!
I have only recently become interested in cars and maintaining them, but sites like this make it alot easier for novices like me to learn things.
Your explanation regarding engine oil changes cleared the subject up for me perfectly, as did crinkly daves comments.Thanks for these bits of info, i will remember them.
As this was my first posting on this site (and on the internet in general!)I suspect my original post was either not clear or incorrect,or possibly both.
I must also add that i find your background and employment history very interesting- amazing that we can all receive advice (free!) from someone who holds such an important position in the automotive industry.
I deduce therefore that you are a former or even current denizen of the Institute of Tribology, Leeds Uni, and claim my prize of a litre of Castrol's finest:) By the way, I came across the Mufti paper (Leeds again) on analysing valve train friction, which I guess has relevance to your PD work. Sooner valve springs are replaced the better! I make no claim to be knowledgable about such matters, only being a law grad. Albeit from Bradford, originally.
No' mine's about 2 and a half years old. I've already sussed that SLX II is not suitable, and I have even spoken to the helpful Castrol Technical number. I always use the best oil, and was very surprised to find that SLX II was not suitable - hence calling Castrol.
Can't say I agree with the use of any flushing agents, assuming engine is running OK.
If its clean then you don't need to flush; if its dirty then flushing agents will just stir up all the muck (that's been quietly sitting in the corners for years) and may cause blockages etc. Oil pickup strainer in the sump is a favourite for blocking up after a flush.
Almost two thirds of of the Mitsubsihi dealer network has signed up be ‘company car specialists', which means they have been specifically trained to help drivers who are considering a Mitsubishi as their next company car.