The radiator on my 306 (1996, new shape DTurbo, with air con)
needs replacing - the only problem is it looks like the radiator is
married to the airconditioning condenser.
Combine this with virtually zero clearance to disconnect the bottom hoses
(located on drivers side) it looks like an absolute mare.
Is there any way (or should I say easy way) to get the radiator out, without
losing half the skin off the back of my hands, or having to do anything
nightmarish like having to get the air con degassed.
(BTW even if it was possible to repair the radiator, you'd still have to get it
out first!)
Any help/info would be appreciated.
/John
PS: Previous posts about how to refill & bleed the coolant system on a DTurbo
have been already been read and noted.
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It was me that had a radiator problem on my 1997 306 D turbo. Sadly it had no airco but after being unable to track the source of the leak I resorted to the garage for a replacement. There were three models of radiator, apparently covering all ages and models of 306, identifed via a code on a sticker under the bonnet. Anyway it was the most expensive but I had it changed for £200 all in and it has been perfect ever since.
No help to you I guess but a report on the conclusion to my problem!!
Matt
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John,
The bottom hose connection to the radiator on 306 diesel models is a real pig.
Without seeing the installation it is difficult to comment on the radiator/condensor setup, but being French, it could be a real nightmare job.
Most a/c condensors will detach from the radiator in situ, but there is always the exception!
I have changed a couple of 306 Diesel radiators, it's not the nicest job, made worse by the awkward botom hose connection.
Best of luck!
David
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As I believe a replacement radiator is imminent and having read this thread I rushed outside and checked my 306. It would appear that there are two clips at the top of the rad which facilitate it being slid uppwards after all the rest of the gubbins is disconnected. As for the air con condenser it would appear that there are two brackets affixed, one at either side near the top, which are pop riveted through the condenser. These brackets are a sliding fit through two corresponding brackets on the rad. The rad should therefore still just pull out. The rad brackets are moulded so I bet its a special radiator for cars with air con and therefore more brass!
And yes the bottom hose connector looks a pig.
Let us know how you get on.
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As the other posts suggest, the a/c condenser does only clip to the radiator. Whilst the rad is out, take a very careful look at the condenser for any 'wet' patches signifying a gas leak, usually at the bottom corners, especially on the drivers side. Whilst you are down there(!), put some oil around the 'P' clips that hold the a/c lines to the front crossmember as moisture collects between the p clip and the ally pipe and corrodes straight through, sometimes in less than 2 years.
As for the radiator connection, you need fingers like ET, and the strength of the 6 million dollar man (remember him?). Be careful of the clip, as if one of the lugs snaps off, you'll need a new bottom hose. Now you know why Peugeot quote 3.5 hours to change the condenser.
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Dave. You may remember my previous query re removal of air con pipes on my 306. Yes I can confirm that the pipe had corrode under the P clip and the car is just 3 years old. Total cost of replacement pipes/seals/labour and re-gas £256.97. HJ does warn about checking the air con on 'car-by-car breakdown.
The most annoying part was waiting nearly 2 months for the short pipe as it was on back order at the dealers - summer has nearly gone!
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Corroding a/c pipes should be part of a vehicle recall due to the environmental impact of the escaping gas, surely?
David
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