Ford Sierra (Trike) - Handbrake Inoperable. - 420 Turbo Diesel

Hi I was wondering if anyone can help me. I have Ford Sierra rear calipers on my Trike, they are complete with the handbrake mechanism. The handbrake has always worked OK. I recently did the yearly service on it before going to Scotland and decided to change the rear pads (as I have some new ones) as they were getting worn but not worn out. I slackened off the handbrake cable and tried to screw the pistons back in, but I couldn't do it and decided to put it all back together, again the pads have lots of meat left on them but the pads I wanted to fit and are genuine Ford and I wondered if they would work better with my rear thunb brake set up.

I adjusted up the handbrake and took it for it's MOT, it passed OK. It sat for a few days before going away on it. When I came to move it the handbrake was on solid (on one wheel, only connected to one Cliper on my Trike), I rocked it as sometimes to pads rust to the discs after being washed but it wouldn't move, I slackened off the handbrake cable and it came off, I worked the handbrake lever and adjusted up the cable and it worked OK. It was whilst on holiday that I realised it has packed up working. I am fairly sure something has gone wrong inside the caliper. I am looking at getting a re-con caliper but I thought I would check to see if there is and easy fix before I do that.

Many Thanks in advance,,, Andrew...

Ford Sierra (Trike) - Handbrake Inoperable. - 420 Turbo Diesel

Hi I was wondering if anyone can help me. I have Ford Sierra rear calipers on my Trike, they are complete with the handbrake mechanism. The handbrake has always worked OK. I recently did the yearly service on it before going to Scotland and decided to change the rear pads (as I have some new ones) as they were getting worn but not worn out. I slackened off the handbrake cable and tried to screw the pistons back in, but I couldn't do it and decided to put it all back together, again the pads have lots of meat left on them but the pads I wanted to fit and are genuine Ford and I wondered if they would work better with my rear thunb brake set up.

I adjusted up the handbrake and took it for it's MOT, it passed OK. It sat for a few days before going away on it. When I came to move it the handbrake was on solid (on one wheel, only connected to one Cliper on my Trike), I rocked it as sometimes to pads rust to the discs after being washed but it wouldn't move, I slackened off the handbrake cable and it came off, I worked the handbrake lever and adjusted up the cable and it worked OK. It was whilst on holiday that I realised it has packed up working. I am fairly sure something has gone wrong inside the caliper. I am looking at getting a re-con caliper but I thought I would check to see if there is and easy fix before I do that.

Many Thanks in advance,,, Andrew...

PS The handbrake was fine before I tried to wind the pistons back and it was fine after, but went wrong after appearing to seize on.

Andrew...

Ford Sierra (Trike) - Handbrake Inoperable. - skidpan

Did you use the correct tool to wind the pistons back in? Done it plenty of times on my Sierra calipers and never had an handbrake issue. Are the pads moving freely in the carrier? Did you align the slot in the piston so that the lug on the pad backplate can engage correctly?

The calipers themselves are normally totally reliable. Mine have been on the car since 1992 and other than the occational service and new pads have never been touched.

There are places that will re-condition your own caliper for peanuts compared to buying an exchange unit. This company www.brake-caliper-painting.com/brake_caliper_refur...8 quoted me £25 a Sierra caliper earlier this year for a basic service on mine but once they were off it was obvious there were no issues other than requiring a good clean so I left well alone.

Ford Sierra (Trike) - Handbrake Inoperable. - 420 Turbo Diesel

Did you use the correct tool to wind the pistons back in? Done it plenty of times on my Sierra calipers and never had an handbrake issue. Are the pads moving freely in the carrier? Did you align the slot in the piston so that the lug on the pad backplate can engage correctly?

The calipers themselves are normally totally reliable. Mine have been on the car since 1992 and other than the occational service and new pads have never been touched.

There are places that will re-condition your own caliper for peanuts compared to buying an exchange unit. This company www.brake-caliper-painting.com/brake_caliper_refur...8 quoted me £25 a Sierra caliper earlier this year for a basic service on mine but once they were off it was obvious there were no issues other than requiring a good clean so I left well alone.

Firstly thankyou for your reply.

The pads and calipers are sliding very freely. I am sure no issues there.

I was fitting new braided rear hoses. The handbrake was fine before I started so I have inadvertently done something.

The caliper without the handbrake (N/S) I tried winding back the caliper. I didn't have the tool to do it so I left well alone. The side with the cable connected. I slackened off the cable but didn't disconnect it, again I tried winding back the piston and couldn't do it. So I re-fitted the original pads as they still have lots of meat on them (wanted to fit new as they may be a better compound and work better with my thumb brake). I put it all back together, I bled the brakes and pumped the pistons out. I then adjusted up the handbrake on the O/S caliper. It seemed fine. I took it for it's MOT. The Trike sat for a few days, when I came to move it the handbrake was stuck on, I slackened it off and it came off, I then re-adjusted it and it worked. I then found the next time I used it I pull the lever all the way up and it isn't doing anything.

I am not 100% sure that I aligned the peg on the pad with the piston. What effect would that have if it is not aligned?

What would your advice to me be please? Would winding the pistons all the way in as I now have the tool, borrowed off a mate make any difference?

Thankyou for the link.

Thanks again, Andrew...