Part way through replacing the corroded sump pan on my partners car.
All going well so far and oh, you do not have to remove and refit the exhaust manifold/cat as Haynes say. Good job as the studs look like they would all need drilling out and replacing which would be a right kerfuffle.
Question I have is that the sump is well and truly glued to the engine block. All the bolts and 4 nuts have been undone. I have tried prising gently with a screwdriver and it may just be a case of being patient and carrying on.
Does anyone, who has done this job, have any other suggestions as to how best get the sump off?
Thanks in advance
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Hi,
You are right about one thing.. The sump's on these ARE well and truly stuck on.
I take it your replacing the sump anyway.. so it' does,nt really matter if you damage it when removing.
If you have a reasonable sized prybar/screwdriver, use a hammer to help seperate the sump from the block. I usually start at the front right hand side and once the prybar is in a bit,try and lever the sum down to break the sealer. Once you get it started to split it will get easier.
You could try prising it off if you ave 2 prybars and put 1 in either side of the sump at the front of the engine..
Can be tricky to get sump off and on with the exhaust in the way.. But It can be done but be prepared to muck about with it.
Hope this helps.. Good luck
Edited by jimbano on 14/10/2008 at 20:26
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try tapping round with a hammer and a bit of wood, i would avoid chisling into the join for fear of damaging the bottom of the block face
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Fair point.. But the sumps are WELL sealed on.. I think it would take a lot of force to break the seal, but once you manage that, it will make it easier.
Forgot to mention earlier, take care with the oil pick up pipe. These are easily broken if you try to force the sump down past it due to the exhaust been in the way. I also remove the front crank pulley (3 bolts)... Just gives a bit of extra room to get the sump down and out.
hth.
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Many thanks both for the advice. I will tackle it again tonight and will report back on how it went.
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Success!!
Job done with a few supplementary notes to the Haynes procedure as I decided not to remove the exhaust:
- Remove the RH wingliner and drive belt shield.
- The sump will come away from the block by inserting a flat screwdriver carefully at the front and back of the engine and then pushing in a putty knife or scraper and carefully tap it along each side as far as it will go. Trying again with the screwdriver front and back it should then come away.
- With the exhaust in situ it is very tight to get the sump out. Removing the wingliner and belt shield will give more sideways clearance. You need to rock the car in gear to turn the engine, if necessary, to make sure all the pistons are half way up the bores so that the crankshaft counterweights are all horizontal. This is also important to give you the necessary clearance. The the oil pick up pipe will need to be removed before the sump will come off. Undo the two 10mm bolts holding it on and it will come off (no gasket, just a seal)
- Fitting the new sump is the reverse of this and it's best to have a dry fitting run to minimize catching sealant on any of the internal engine parts.
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